Monday, June 6, 2011

When my car changes gears while accelerating, it clunks and lurches....?

It started just today. In fact, if I have it in ';neutral'; and I put it in ';drive'; with the hood open, you can physically see the engine move a bit... What the hec is going on?



I'll take it to a mechanic, but I'm just wondering what this could be and how much it'll run me? It's a 2004 Saturn L300.



Also, this is before my schedule says I should change the transmission fluid, so I don't think it's that.When my car changes gears while accelerating, it clunks and lurches....?
Throttle Position Sensor Bad causing RPMs to be too high.



Transmission Fluid %26amp; Filter need to be changed and Transmission Flushed. ';But 2004'; Doesn't sound right, Hard driving or high Mileage? could account for it!



Torque Converter Went bad.



Cost all depends what they find wrong!When my car changes gears while accelerating, it clunks and lurches....?
sounds like a defective transmission mount.
You need your engine mounts replaced. You probably have hydraulic engine mounts and they're worn out. That why you see the engine moving, and hear the clunking.
Defintiely sounds like a rubber mount has broken on the engine or gearbox. It's not a disaster by an means and it's worth having a look to check if it is not just the bolt holding the mount that has come undone. There are usually 3 mounts on the engine and the most common one to give up is the one at the front at the bottom of the engine. Engine mounts only cost $20 and might take an hour or two to fit.

Why the RPM hangs up when changing gears?

i have a 2002 ford focus svt, and when i'm driving the RPM hangs up for 2 seconds between gears and it goes slitly up before it goes down , although my foot is totally off the gas.. does anyone know what the problem is and how to make the rpm goes down faster??

i appreciate your help and thanks guys!



B.G vancouver

Why the RPM hangs up when changing gears?
=if you listen to your engine=the tach is right=they don't go to ';instant ';idle==try it in your driveway=give her some gas then let off and you Will see what i meanWhy the RPM hangs up when changing gears?
The computer does this to cut down on unburned hydrocarbons, set to do this at the factory....
Sophie B is correct!

Changing gear without stepping on clutch when the car is off?

Sorry to ask this but i'm just a tad bit worried. My friend and I was sitting in my car waiting for another friend and my friend decided to play with my manual stick shift. He shifted it in a couple of gears before I could tell him to stop. I was wondering with my car off and without having my foot on the clutch can this gear shifting damage the car? I know the basics behind how a clutch works but not sure how it works when the car is not turned on.Changing gear without stepping on clutch when the car is off?
minscule damage. whoever drives will probably do more damage through thier gear changes while driving than you will fiddling with the shift lever while the engine is stopped.Changing gear without stepping on clutch when the car is off?
No damage.
nothing to worry about thats how i learned to find the positions of my gears
it wont hurt anything unless you start the car that way then that can cause problems
It will not damage anything.

Brake pad and rotor change advice?

Mazda astina 1991.

Mechanic says my brake pads need replacing, they are 19mm, the minimum thickness is 20mm. Should i be worried, how quick do they wear down?

My quote states x2 brake pads, one $76, the other $93. Why isn't he using the same type of pads? Also, is he assuming i want the best quality ones, should i ask for cheaper?

Plus x4 rotors, $57 each. But he told me only the fronts needs replacing. Are there 2 rotors per wheel?

labour $130

total AUD$530

!!

I have not noticed any vibrating or warping. Only a put-put-put kind of shaking sometimes, when i change gears, just feels like it's a bit cold, and i'm not using the brakes at that time.

Might get another mechanic to just replace pads and check how damaged the rotors are.Brake pad and rotor change advice?
From your listed prices you've been quoted cheap off-shore brake rotors. Go to: autopartswarehouse.com and invest in EBC dimpled and slotted brake rotors which are produced in Great Britain. While your at their site pick out ceramic based brake pads. Do the job yourself and save $200.00!Brake pad and rotor change advice?
You really need to get another quote.
his quote is for a four wheel brake job... the pads come in sets for front and rear.... not individual wheels... even though he said the rears may be thick enough now most shops will machine them to make sure they are not warped - if there is a warp they try to machine it out and then they may be to thin... so just to cover their butt they include new ones in the estimate... there are a few shops that just replace them though so always make sure to check the bill before you pay



I do mine myself and can't machine the rotors so they just get replaced... depending on how you drive they should last 20,000 to 40,000 miles... if they can be machined at that point then you may get more out of them... hope this helps and good luck with it
You are a dangerous breed my friend. Thank GOD you pile of junk is in another country as not to present a danger here.



20mm is spec and your at 19mm... Here if your involved in an accident and your car is inspected and found to be lacking in the brake area you get charged with criminal negligence.



The estimate is in the ballpark.

How do you change the front driver side axle on a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 with a V8 engine?

I just bought this Jeep. My boyfrind checked everything out before he gave me the okay to buy it. I went on the freeway and when I was almost to my exit, it started vering to the laft. Then after I got off it started pulling back like when you change gears on a standard. Well before I got home I saw smoke comming out of the bottom of my Jeep. I pulled over and thought it was the engine. When my boyfrind and his brothers went to check it out. They came back and told me it was the axle. Now I have to replace it and I need to know how to do it without further damage. Please help!!!How do you change the front driver side axle on a 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4 with a V8 engine?
How did they come up with that conclusion? Before I would do anything, I would drink a beer and think about the situation.

When the smoke was coming out what did it smell like? Was it making any noise when it was veering to the left? Does it make any noise when you turn sharply to the left?

Look at the tire size on each tire? Are the numbers all the same? Are all the tires inflated to the same pressure? You should also check the transmission fluid. If the engine is like a 5.8L or bigger, the pull back is normal. The engine is just bigger than what it needs to be for that transmission but it's used for the 4x4 feature.

Did you personally test drive it before you bought it?
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  • Why does the freewheel down shift lever on my mountain bike have no tension when moving to lower gears?

    When I go to push on the down shift lever it moves all the way forward without changing gears. Sometimes it'll catch and change gears at the very, very end of the ';travel'; of the lever, but usually not. This only seems to occur going down from from the 4th sprocket; from 4-5-6-7 I can shift with little or no trouble. I'm just starting to learn how to maintain my bike instead of taking it in, so thanks for the help!Why does the freewheel down shift lever on my mountain bike have no tension when moving to lower gears?
    Your cable is frayed or kinked.



    If the cable is kinked, reroute it so that it has the fewest number of bends as it approaches the derailleur. If that doesn't work, replace the cable AND housing.



    Since you are just starting out in repairing your own bike (congratulations!) make sure that the bike is shifted into high gear (smallest sprocket in back) with the lever to match. Reroute the cable and housing and readjust.



    **There is NO NEED to touch the 'H' and 'L' screws on the derailleur when replacing the cable.**Why does the freewheel down shift lever on my mountain bike have no tension when moving to lower gears?
    This shouldn't be the best answer. I followed and voted for Joel's advice below, which solved my problem in about 30 sec.



    Zack

    Report Abuse


    It seems some users have more interest in gaining quick points than actually reading the query correctly.



    With trigger or STI shifters the small pawl/spring mechanisms which release cable (shift to lower gears on the rear) can become congealed with dirt and old grease. This means that the thumb shifter (on mountain bikes) doesn't seem to ';catch'; to reel in the cable, and pushes all the way through the movement without resistance.



    The way to solve this is to flush out the shifter with a spray lubricant like Inox or a teflon lube, while working the shifter. This will get rid of the old grease and the dirt which is impeding the shifting mechanism.
    I'm assuming you mean that when you try to shift into a harder gear, it's hesitating or not shifting. (It depends on your shifters and derailleur as far as what gear ';1'; and gear ';7'; mean...) The info below is for this problem. If you're actually having problems shifting to an easier gear, then you just need a simple cable tension adjustment. check out the ';repair help'; section at www.parktool.com for great instructions and photos on derailleur adjustments and setup.



    So....not shifting into a harder gear:



    More often than not, it's grit and grime that causes this....it could be a damaged cable/housing like Mirage said, but before you go replacing that, see if you can clean things up and use a little lube. Dribble a light lube into the cable housings (or remove the cable and lightly grease it). Remove the chain and work the derailleur by hand, then use a degreaser or WD40 to wash away any sand/dirt/grime in the pivots....then lube them with some chain lube or another light oil. Most of the time this is all you need to do, but cables and housing do wear out or rust, so if the cleaning doesn't help, pick up a new cable set. Also, carefully check the routing to be sure that it isn't binding or kinking anywhere.



    A last resort....sometimes on cheaper shifters the springs aren't very strong and the grease can dry up. If none of the above steps help, remove the cover plate on the shifter and spray a little WD40 or silicone lube on the ratcheting mechanism. Don't try to take it apart or adjust anything, just wet the grease with lube. This seems to be a common problem on Shimano Deore and lower level shifters. The higher quality ones don't seem to be affected by this.
    Get new housing and inner cable.

    Why cant i change gear?

    my oh just passed his test recently and hes a pain he keeps crunching my gears and now i cnt get it into 1st 2nd and sometimes 6th gear all the time do u knw what hes done to my poor car lol n how costly is it going to cost HIM!!!!!!!!1 thanksWhy cant i change gear?
    Well hard to say without looking at it but,possibly a bad clutch or syncros in the trans worn out.Why cant i change gear?
    more info would be helpful, but he may have done some real damage by wearing away the teeth on the gearsets inside the transmission. couldnt give you a clue how much it would cost, but call a transmission shop and ask how much it would be for your particular car to have the transmission bench built. then price one out of a junk yard. compare the warranties and other pros and cons and see how much it would cost to get the one from the junkyard installed.
    Sounds like the synchros are messed up in the transmission. The grinding sound is the synchros trying to line up with each other. The transmission will have to be removed and taken apart to repair the synchros.
    he's destroyed the synchromesh, what an idiot, how in god's name did he pass his test? This will cost you about 拢600 including labour.



    Don't let him drive your car again until he's had some more lessons.
    He's wrecking your gearbox, not to mention over-revving the engine. Don't let him drive it any more, and take it to a garage. Sounds like you'll need a new gearbox, which is going to cost him!

    Car won't change gear - automatic car. Need serious advice!?

    My car has just started to have tons of problems. One is when I go from stop to driving while in Drive (D) in my automatic 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi it won't shift gears. I try putting it in 1 or 2 and it does the exact same thing as in drive. If I go too fast it even goes into the red in my rpm's without shifting or anything. Also, sometimes the car will be going and then when I try to give it gas it acts as if it's in neutral and just revs until I rev it a little and then it kicks back the way I explained. It sounds like the car is stuck in second or 2. So, if I'm driving 55 MPH I'll be at a constant 4.5k RPM while normally it would have shifted gears and been at 1.8k or so. Is this something I can fix or should I go to a mechanic. How much should I expect to pay? Thank you so much, Yahoo! Answers community!Car won't change gear - automatic car. Need serious advice!?
    It sounds like the transmission is in ';limp in'; mode. When a trouble code is set in the computer, the transmission goes into ';limp'; where it will not shift. On that vehicle, a common cause of the problem is the transmission output speed sensor.



    Have the computer scanned for codes (the transmission is scanned using the blue connector under the dash) that will tell you what the problem is. If it is the sensor, it is not an expensive repair, it just screws into the transmission.Car won't change gear - automatic car. Need serious advice!?
    Despite what everyone thinks, putting the gear shift in ';1'; or ';2'; doesnt force the transmission into that gear, it only stops the transmission from shifting above that gear.



    Overall, you need transmission work, judging by the symptoms you probably need a full rebuild or a new transmission.
    my auto car did the same had my gear box reconditioned last month cost me 500 i rang round every where to get the best deal dont drive the car or you will make it worse the baring might have gone or the belt which is cheaper to fix if the belt snaps you will need a whole new gearbox could cost up to 700
    Yeah sorry buddie sounds like you have a slipping transmission.. Really really bad slipping problem.
    you need new transmission
    Start with Fire4511's suggestion and if that is not the problem you are going to be having a date with the transmission shop. Transmissions are not good projects for the untrained.



    Get estimates!



    On any major repair I recommend that you get 3 or 4 estimates from local service facilities unless you are lucky enough to have a shop with an absolutely stellar reputation available. Compare the estimates and choose one of the middle estimates. My reasoning for this is the low estimate either left something out or worse is deliberately giving a low ball estimate to get you in and then when your car is all torn apart they find all sorts of critically important things wrong with it which run your bill through the roof. Do the leg work and be an informed car owner. No reliable technician or shop will give an estimate for repair site unseen except as a budgetary estimate which will be a range from the middle average to the unusual high end possible.

    What would cause car (automatic) to not shift gears unless in OVERDRIVE ..?

    I'm interested in buying this car it's a 1992 3000gt ..



    Here is the ad - http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/1



    Anyway so they say that the car won't change gears unless overdrive is on.. Why is that..?



    What kind of problems could this mean and how much $$ would it cost to fix them..? The price of the car is pretty cheap and I am wondering if the seller knows something that I do not..What would cause car (automatic) to not shift gears unless in OVERDRIVE ..?
    Ditch that and look for another 3000 GTWhat would cause car (automatic) to not shift gears unless in OVERDRIVE ..?
    it means you dont want that car-$2000 minimum to fix
    sometimes changing the transmission and filter can fix that, but no guarantee.

    Changing gear Whilst Driving without having the clutch down?

    If you change gear Whilst driving without having the clutch lever down and the gearbox makes that screeching noise.



    What actually happens?



    What effect has it on the actual car, how long will it last do i have to change it?Changing gear Whilst Driving without having the clutch down?
    You are grinding the gears and you will ruin your transmision. It won't last long and will be very expensive to fix! I strongly recomend using your clutch everytime you shift gears!Changing gear Whilst Driving without having the clutch down?
    Here's the deal. If you do it right, you can shift a transmission without using the clutch. In fact, it's not a bad skill to have because clutches and clutch cables fail on older cars, like Volkswagens. But it isn't good for the gears because they chip, and can eventually break, as can other parts that are forced when you try to yank it into gear. The screeching noise you hear is the gears buzzing against each other because they are spinning at different speeds, and it is an indication that you are not doing it correcty. The more you do it, the sooner you will be replacing some or all of the transmission.
    Can't find it,grind it?

    You're grinding the cogs, that's what causes the screeching and if you continued doing it you'd feck the gear box up.
    The syncros are mashing together when you hear that noise. Keep doing it and eventually you won't be able to get it in gear. Then you'll need a full rebuild or new trans. Save up!
    That is like putting your finger into a fan that's running. What do you think will happen?
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  • 83 Celica GT 5-spd. w/ clanking noise when changing gears, need to know how to fix, not u-joint problem?

    someone told me that there was a way to adjust the rear end by tightening something to reduce play? not too sure if this should work or does anyone have any clue or ideas or suggestions.....please help83 Celica GT 5-spd. w/ clanking noise when changing gears, need to know how to fix, not u-joint problem?
    Yes it could be worn u-joints have them checked.

    Fit new ones having grease nipples.

    Problem changing Gears ?

    I have a stickshift (1993 VW JETTA). I was driving in the 4th gear when I realized that I was not able to get in the 5th gear.

    After a while all I could do is get the car in the 3rd or the 4th gear (1st,2nd,5th,reverse all gone). It feels like the gears were never there, the stick is totally free. The reverse is making the car go forward. Any ideas what is wrong ? and how much it might cost ?Problem changing Gears ?
    your transmission is rooted, time to get a replacement.Problem changing Gears ?
    The shift linkage is worn out. It does not cost much to replace the bushings that are worn out. $50 would be average. The parts are available through VW and pretty much just press into place. Have a nice day
    May likely be a shifter mechanism problem. This will not be as expensive to repair as an internal transmission problem. Hopefully something in the shift linkage has come loose. Have this checked by a reputable mechanic and do your homework, do be taken for a ride by unscrupulous mechanics.
    your gearbox has alot of gunk in it . If you can take it apart and clean it, it should work fine. If not take it to a specialist.
    You linkage is going bad, not allowing you to shift further...
    Sounds simple-like perhaps your shift linkage has loosened up and isn't nice and tight. Check out under the hood for what moves when the gearshift lever is manipulated by a helper inside the car. Examine just how the gearshift's 'throw' is attached to the transmission's gear shift mechanism. If the mechanical movement of the gearshift lever isn't effecting gear change, maybe the fastener(s) are loose and allowing 'slop' to interfere with crisp gear selection.
    shifter fork problem your stick is not engaging in the shift fork because it is out of place and if the reverse gear is making you car forward either your label is wrong or there is no reverse idler gear so you are missing a gear

    All you good drivers out there, please answer my question about gears!!?

    Well I know how to use the gears, but I'm abit unsure about 'when' to use them! Like, say when you've stopped at traffic lights, do you have to put it into first gear, and why do you have to do this? And also, how do you know when to change gears just generally when driving along? And when your going up/down hill is it a lower gear or higher gear? Im confused!

    Sorry with all the questions lol but I do hope you can help me out!

    xAll you good drivers out there, please answer my question about gears!!?
    Ok first thing first, the golden rule with gears is to use them when you need to use them. For example if you are driving around town with a speed limit of 30mph, you will change up gears fairly soon. However if you are entering a motorway you want to get up to the speed limit as quick as possible, so you will change gears later at a higher rev level then in town.

    The best advice I can give about when you change gears will come with time and experience but you will always need to look at your rev counter and listen to the engine note.

    At traffic light it a good idea to leave the car in neutral with the hand brake on if you are going to be there for a while (E.G. the lights have just changed to red).

    If the lights are going to change (Traffic on the other lights have stopped moving) Then you put the car in first with the clutch down and the hand brake up.

    Going up and gown hills if simple, going down a hill use the highest gear you can to maintain your speed below limit. Going up the hill its always best to use the same gear going up as you would going down.

    Ja.All you good drivers out there, please answer my question about gears!!?
    you are blondie right? Well i will explain. After you stop you use gear 1 to start driving. Then i think the best way for yu is to change to next gear with every 10 mph on your speed indicator. So when your speed indicator shows 30mpr you should be on 4th gear. Then if you move easy change to 5th and keep it. Observe your speed indicator when it get down 10 mph get lower next gear. And so on. The lower gear is -1 the higher +1. When driving up the hill always reduce to ower gear depending how easy your car can roll. It's so funny question
    You claim you know how to use gears but all these things are the fundamental parts of ';using gears';

    You should be changing gear when the revs reach 60-70% of the rev range.

    Im not sure exactly why you put it into first but this is the best I can explain... lower gears = lower force needed to move the car, the car may just pull away in second if you have good clutch control. I think there is an equasion to work out gear forces but I dont know it.
    Well when you are at a stop, you always have to start from first or you are going to have to give the car alot of gas to get moving. 2nd gear is usually a good gear for turns.

    When going up a hill the gear doesnt matter, just as long as its not about to stall out.

    When just driving around, I usually shift when I hear the motor start to work hard (get loud) this is alot easier to do if your car has a tachometer
    1st is for torque to ensure the engine doesn't die when you're pulling away from a stop. The weight of the car is so great that the engine cannot overcome it without first gear. 2nd is used from about 15-25 mph, 3rd is for 26-40mph, and 4th and above are for 40mph upward. My Cooper likes to rev to about 2700rpm before it will shift gears smoothly, but all cars are different.



    Knowing when to use which gear will come to you with time and practice. Good luck!
    I have been driving cars with manual transmissions for 45 years, and there are 4 things I would advise:

    1. Plan ahead to keep from shifting up and down

    2. Always be sure to fully depress the clutch pedal when changing gears so as not to wear out the clutch plate

    3. Don't ';ride the clutch';

    4. If you have to stay stopped for more than a minute, take the car out of gear rather than sit with your foot on the clutch.
    Get yourself a car with an automatic transmission. Then you don't have to worry about gear changes or stalling your engine.
    Are you currently taking driving lessons?

    If so please tell me where abouts in the country and when so that I can avoid the area.
    I am learning to drive at the minute, soon to take my test.

    When you are stopped at a round about/lights etc you should put the car in 1st, any higher and you will probably stall when you pull away.



    You kind of know when to change gear because of the noise the car makes, if you drive too slow in a higher gear the car will start to jump and you'll stall (learnt from experience lol).



    You use a higher gear when going up hill because a lower gear wouldn't give you enough power to get up.



    Hope this helps :)

    Help with my bicycle - I can pedal, but gears won't give resistance, I'm literally going no-where.?

    I was cycling into work this morning, got about 5 miles into a 5 mile journey when I felt my pedals give, there was no resistance, and I no matter how hard I pedal, I'm going nowhere.



    When I pedal, the chain goes round, and all the gears move, I can change gear, and the chain does move to the retrospective gear, but there's zero resistance, it just does it circuit and doesn't move the bike at all.



    Any ideas what I need to do? Thanks,Help with my bicycle - I can pedal, but gears won't give resistance, I'm literally going no-where.?
    Sounds like you've stripped the ratchet inside the hub. New gear hub I'm afraid!Help with my bicycle - I can pedal, but gears won't give resistance, I'm literally going no-where.?
    Your Cog set has failed
    YOU NEED A NEW REAR SPROCKET ON THE BACK WHEEL.It will unscrew ,just remove and change it.
    ur bike ****, by a good 1
    New gear hub like the previous respondent said!
    It could be an internal problem in the gear cluster,which would require disassembling of the cluster,and if do not know how to do this,then you should have a bicycle mechanic do it for you.
    By the sound of it, you have a standard derailier system. The chain moves when you peddle and the gears move when you push the lever. The only thing that it can be is your free hub.



    There are two ways of solving this:



    Replace the hub (You will have to re-build the wheel for this).



    Replace the wheel (拢20 to you gov).



    Take it to your bike shop (Make sure that you are talking to someone who knows how to build wheels.) and see what they have to say.



    Luck
    Internal issue.



    The free wheel body has packed up.



    Replacing the cassette or free-wheel (cogs on the outside) won't fix the problem. No shop will rebuild the free-wheel body - major mission.



    Need a new hub.



    Need to buy or build a new wheel.
    you need a new freehub or freewheel both need a special tool to be removed. take it to a bike shop as it will cost less to get repaired then to buy the remover tool
    The free wheel is done for. Take it to a bike shop they will know what to do.
    If your gears are the internal hub kind; it is possible your cable needs adjusting.



    Bike shop can adjust for under $10 bucks
    Here is exactly what you need to do. You need to load the bike and take it to the bike shop and let the friendly professional mechanic fix it for you. Pay him and thank him.



    Resume your rides to work and back.



    No offense intended, but if you are asking here, you probably don't know how to fix it. If you did know how - or have the God given talent to be a mechanic - you would have dove in and fixed it. A mechanic is your best choice.



    Ride hard, have fun.
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto



    This web site should solve your problem.

    I have 1999 yamaha wolverine, and when I shift gears it seems like ther is no top gear and no bottom gear?

    I have a 99 yamaha wolverine 4x4. When I go to shift down or up it seems like there is no end to gears. I know it is a 5spd with reverse, but I can't get it to find neutral, no matter how many times I push down or up it want stop shifting. The atv is not running right now, dead battery. Does it need to have running in order to change gears? Does anyone know what could be the problem?I have 1999 yamaha wolverine, and when I shift gears it seems like ther is no top gear and no bottom gear?
    Roll the quad forward and back when shifting gears, while the engine is not running.

    The transmission gears will not mesh properly unless the quad is moving, or the engine is running.
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  • Should I change driving instructor?

    Ive only had 4 lessons which isnt alot at all. My third lesson went really well but my 4th lesson went terrible. i kept stalling the car and all my instructor could do was yell at me. he wouldnt let me calm down for a few minutes and with the pressure of traffic and instructor getting frustrated and angry with me i done everything wrong for the whole hour. ive learnt to how to change gears by myself and know wen to change gears but because of him shouting and the pressure of other road users beeping i couldnt even do that. ive onlt had 4 lessons so dont know what im doing properly yet, should i change to a more patient driving instructor??? i cant understand why he cant explain things to me patiently as when he yells it throws me off course.Should I change driving instructor?
    You're not an idiot, you're a learner, so he shouldn't yell at you at all. If he yelled at me like that I'd give him a slap! Report him to the driving school and he'll get into trouble for being like that and I would definitely go elsewhere because you won't be able to learn properly under that kind of pressure.Should I change driving instructor?
    every one is different some people do better under pressure some people need to take a minute find an instructor perfect for you
    I'd give him one more chance in case he was just having a bad day. If he yells at you next time, you should find another instructor. There is no point in wasting your money on someone who is just going to yell at you, and make you nervous. You are taking driving lessons to learn how to drive, not to be verbally abused.

    How do you operate a 1959-T120-Triumph Bonneville or a Vincent HRD Black Shadow?

    I want to know how to change gears start the engine brake, everything on operating these motorcycles... thanksHow do you operate a 1959-T120-Triumph Bonneville or a Vincent HRD Black Shadow?
    to start,put it in neutral %26amp; slowly kick it through until you feel it come up on the compression stroke. push down the tickler on top of each carburetor until you smell gas or feel it on your finger then let it up.

    turn the ignition on--put your right hand on the throttle %26amp; open it up about 1/4 at the same time as you kick the start lever through as hard as you can--- if it doesn't start, do it again with out pushing down the carb ticklers, repeat until it starts.

    the left grip lever is the clutch. the right grip lever is the front brake.

    the rear brake is in front of the LEFT foot peg. the gear shift lever is in front of the RIGHT foot peg. the shift pattern is lift up for first gear %26amp; push down for the next 3.(1 up 3 down) neutral is between 1st %26amp; 2nd.

    How do you operate a 1959-T120-Triumph Bonneville or a Vincent HRD Black Shadow?
    You stomp till you' re silly on the kick starter and pull in the clutch and drop down into first. Accelerate and clutch- shift into second...etc. If its night time you turn on the head light. You have an HRD Vincent and are asking these questions?



    Right pappy, I forgot. I had a Velocette MSS 500 and priming (tickling in proper british ) was all important. No tickle - no go.
    Bill forgot to mention that you have to prime the carbs first.

    I have the same question as he does though. If you own rides like these how can you not know how to operate them?

    I'll be glad to take either or both off your hands.
    The only Real difference I can remember is that British bikes shifted on the right and kickstarted. The rest is just adjusting to older tech. Practice on something replaceable, like a new Ninja or Hayagusa.

    Automatic car won't switch gears? serious need of help?

    also my dad checked the trans fluid and said it wasnt low.



    * 11 minutes ago

    * - 4 days left to answer.



    Additional Details

    Ok here is exactly what it is doing.

    It doesn't do it all the time, but more lately. Sometimes I'll drive it and there won't be a problem, sometimes there is, it gets worse if i drive farther.

    ok so here whats happening



    Ill be driving and (my car is auto) it will sometimes act like its not wanting to change gears. The rpm meter shoots up but never in the red section. Then I either have to press the gas or stop for it to stop. When it switches gears when this happens, it does a little jerk.



    Someone told me it could be that my transmission is about to die, IS THERE ANYTHING ELSE THAT COULD BE CAUSING THIS, OR SOMETHING THAT WONT MEAN MY TRANS COMPLETELY GOES OUT.?



    and about how long does it take for them to go completely out?



    11 minutes ago

    If it helps any, it usually has this problem going between 30- 55. Like it will be fine until I have to slow down because of the car in front of me or speed up.



    9 minutes ago

    when it doesn't change, it roars almost like its in neutral,Automatic car won't switch gears? serious need of help?
    Sounds like the trans is slipping. If fluid is at correct level, get ready for a rebuild or replacement transmission. Sorry.Automatic car won't switch gears? serious need of help?
    you never said what kind of car this is, some cars if not most are controlled either computer with a shift solenoid on the transmission or a TPS sensor thats on the throtle body. either one could go out or about to go out, trying to guess how much time is left is futile.
    If it is a Chrysler product, you can bet on a transmission. From what it sounds like, the transmission is going. What color is the fluid? It should be pink, or red at the worst.
    Despite you have not mentioned year/model of you car, mainly 95 and up transmissions are build with a pulse generator sensor and solenoid switch. If you have check engine light on, get the codes out and see what are they related to. Usually Auto Zone will pull the codes out for free. If there are no codes, is either the torque converter locking in or clutch slippage (YES, you have clutch system in the automatic transmissions as well).

    As conclusion:



    1. Happy scenario-one of the sensors gone wild;

    2. Worse case scenario-get ready to invest (if its worth it) in a REMAN transmission (rebuild) or used one from Auto Wreckers.



    Good luck





    ******EDIT******



    Saturn are notorios for transmission failure. This symptom is typical in Saturn. The clutches between 2nd to 3rd are almost gone. It causes slippage before engaging. That is the explanation of not changing gears. Yes, I know its automatic transmission but, they still have clutches in the system. Sory for bad news.
    your only hope is to drop the tranny pan and change the tranny filter and put pan back on and when refilling put in a bottle of lucas transmission fix and hope it works, if it doesn't it sounds like you will need a new tranny.

    How to change gear knob for bmw 325ci (2002)manual?

    i bought a new gear konb from Ebay,but i do not konw how to remove the one in my car,so is any one could help me ???thanks a lot!!!!!!!How to change gear knob for bmw 325ci (2002)manual?
    Easiest way I found was to hold onto the gearknob with one hand tightly, use the other hand and knock upwards on the hand holding the knob. A sharp blow/tug will get it out...



    Don't try to twist it off... you might end up breaking your gearshift - because it DOES NOT twist off. And you do not need to remove anything else (shift boot, boot panel...etc) to get it out.How to change gear knob for bmw 325ci (2002)manual?
    The knob probably twists off. The most common knob is threaded on. You may need to remove the panel that your shift boot is attached to to remove the boot from the shifter. Good luck.
    Pull up really hard on the knob and it will pop off. Be careful not to punch yourself while doing this as it can take quite a bit of force.

    Does anybody know how to mend gears on a Claud Butler push bike?

    I have a Claud Butler bike with 21 gears. There are 7 on one side and 3 on the other, with click up and click down levers (sorry, its the only way I can describe it!). For some reason this has stopped working and the gears wont go lower than 3 (on the 7 side one) or 2 (on the 3 side one).

    When I change gears, the wire appers to go really slack but when I tried to tighten this down by the back wheel, it has stopped all of the gears working.

    Any suggestions?Does anybody know how to mend gears on a Claud Butler push bike?
    there is a manual to download in the link and J G's link give the info as well because they are Shimano gears. Check the adjustments are right using the info in the manual probably won't be anything more than a cable needs tightening up.



    http://www.falconcycles.co.uk/CORP/PDFs/Does anybody know how to mend gears on a Claud Butler push bike?
    Have you tried using a different derailleur? Maybe the cable through from the derailleur needs tightening? Get a spanner, undo the nut on the derailleur, pull the cable tight with mole grips of pliers when the bike is in its highest gear (chain on top ring of rear cassette and top crank by pedals) then tighten nut back up.



    Hopefully this works and you can get back to using your bike to its full potential!
    Good advice above: Not sure whether your bike has Shimano gears, but instructions for front %26amp; rear adjustment from here;

    http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/



    Most other makes are similar.
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  • Shifting gears on a motorcycle?

    Just started learning how to ride a motorcycle and I have a few questions.



    I've sort of the got the hang of it, I've just noticed when I switch gears.. it's not smooth. Any tips?



    When going from 1st to 2nd.. I hold in the clutch and kick up. What should my throttle hand be doing? Keep it the same? Release it?



    If I release it and gradually bring it back up.. should the clutch be held in at all? Or just for that split second when I change gears?Shifting gears on a motorcycle?
    Once you are moving you don't have to gentlly release the clutch. Pull the lever in-click the next gear with your foot-and (never stop touching the clutch lever) let the clutch return forward under its own force. This is all a very fast action. When accelerating- as soon as you pull the clutch in let off the throttle, then once the shift is made and you're letting off the clutch-open the throttle again. One thing that might be taking the smoothness out of it might be how far you are pulling the clutch in. Except taking off in 1st, you never have to pull the clutch in all the way again. From 2nd-6th, only pull the clutch in about 20%. In fact once rolling you can shift without using the clutch at all. A technique many drag racers use to shift faster.

    You can shift more than 1 time while holding the clutch in. I have rarely found it useful except when performing an unexpected stop- where you are hard on the brakes when in a high gear.

    Smooth , fast and efficient shifting is all about timming, coordination and feel. Imagine a pulley system- a rope with the ends in your hands wrapped around a tree. Pull with your left hand and the right hand goes out. Same thing here: Left hand pulls the clutch backwards and the right hand pushes the throttle forward-the shift is made-and the left hand allows the clutch to travel forward and your right hand moves the throttle rearward. It becomes second nature with experience and is like a reflex. Something you don't even think about. You do it by ';feel';. I hope this answered your question.Shifting gears on a motorcycle?
    okay, i'll try and explain the best i can. When you are shifting up, you let off the throttle completely, pull in the clutch, kick up, let out the clutch and then increase the throttle. When you are shifting down its the same except you kick down and let out the clutch a little slower.
    When you upshift, you squeeze the clutch handle, let off the throttle, shift, then let out the clutch and at the SAME time, give it the gas again. If you let the engine RPMs stay down after letting off the gas, it will jerk when you shift. So you have to give it gas at the same time you're letting the clutch out again. it's a simultaneous movement. You don't keep it the same, and you just release it momentarily to shift, then hit the throttle again as you release the clutch. It's just much quicker on a motorcycle than a car. Once you hit it right a few times, you'll know what I mean.



    - The Gremlin Guy - Former Honda 350 / 750 rider
    Since you have two different answer, I just had to say that gremlinguy is absolutely right. It is done simultaneously. Not one after the other. You don't completely put the throttle all the way off either when up-shifting..
    when you are shifting pull the clutch and sanctimoniously release gas and **** then what i do is when i release the clutch i count to 5 while smoothly releasing, and when at 3 start trottle
    Purely as an example, if you are doing 20mph, that might equate to 3500 rpm in first or 1500 rpm in second. If you change gear to second with the revs stable at 3500 rpm you will not have a smooth change as the engine is suddenly put under a heavy load (from the transmission). What you should be doing is reducing the throttle to a rev range which would equate to the same speed in the new gear 撀?500 rpm. These figures are only for example there will be a world of difference depending on the bike and you don't have to get it exactly right, a little practice will give you the idea.



    Once you are moving you really do not need to let out the clutch slowly it is almost one swift squeeze and release, but in order to avoid a wheelie you must have reduced the revs during this process and then bring the revs up smoothly. As you gain confidence and experience you will be able to increase the throttle quicker to really experience the potential but it is still a smooth progressive action no savage twists.



    Changing down is a similar process you need to match revs to the relative speed that a particular gear would produce, as you change down a slight blip in the throttle before releasing the clutch will make the transition smoother. Changing from 4th to 1st in one go would only really be necessary before a hairpin or coming to a stop, if you want a really swift overtake changing down 2 gears at most will set you up for a swift pull away.

    How does an RC car gearbox work?

    How does the RC car change gears or know when to change gears? For example the 3 speed gearbox and the Savage X.How does an RC car gearbox work?
    when the car reaches a certain speed is when the second gear will kick in. then when your car slows down the first gear will kick in. it pretty cool in how they work.

    How do I replace the gears on my Trek?

    Well, my boyfriend. He knows a fair amount about fixing bikes. We're going to buy gears from the shop for $40 here but the labor is like $75 and we'd like to see if my boyfriend can do it by himself. He's never switched out gears before but he thinks it'll be easy enough.



    My bike was made in the late 80's/ early 90s and has mountain tires--so its not a street bike. The gears being how they are now make it uncomfortable and difficult to ride even just across campus, with minor hills and such. They don't shift very easily and they have a very small range and even the tops of them popped off so they don't work so well.

    I love the gears on my boyfriends bike. There are two different levers for them-- one goes up one goes down a notch. Plus they make pedaling and riding a breeze.



    So I'm having trouble researching these on the web, they all either talk about the cassette? (I don't know what that is) or they talk about how to change gears when I'm riding.

    Can anyone give me a tutorial on how to do it or some helpful links?



    Thanks...How do I replace the gears on my Trek?
    Here are some good sites to use.



    http://bicycletutor.com/



    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/home.html



    http://www.parktool.com/How do I replace the gears on my Trek?
    you may also have to get a longer or shorten the chain _IF you change any gears

    BUT

    what you say doesn;t make sense

    usually mt bikes have super low gears

    are they not *shifting*?

    if that is the case the gears may not need replacing



    wle.
    that depends on which ';gears'; you are talking about.



    the ';cassette'; is the cluster of gears on the rear wheel. if you need to change out the cassette on a bike that old, i would say don't bother, just buy a whole new wheel/wheel set. pricepoint has good deals right now for wheels that will fit your need (about $90). the cassette would have to be bought separately (about $30), but at least you'll know you are getting reliable components.



    you guys could just buy the cassette, the problem with that is finding the proper tools (i've never worked on a bike that old so i'm not sure if the standard cassette remover would work on it).



    as far as the levers, it sounds like you are describing trigger shifters (about $80 for the pair).



    if this were my regular commuter, i could easily justify completely overhauling the entire thing: new cassette, new wheels, new shifters, and new derailleurs. that would cost about $300 though, at which point you might as well buy a new one (unless you are particularly attached to that one).

    How do you know when automatic gears wear-out?

    Hi,



    I am new to automatic cars and I have bought an automatic car about 3-4 years ago.



    I am noticing while I am driving that when I reach a certain speed such as 60kph or 70kph the car takes a long time to shift for a new gear. I let go of the gas paddle and press the paddle again in order to try to change gears but it doesn't. After some time doing this or instead of doing this I keep on pressing the gas paddle, FINALLY the gears will change.



    Does this mean that the automatic gears are wearing-out or its normal?



    ThanksHow do you know when automatic gears wear-out?
    What year make model and eng.size ect as well i would ask have you cked or have someone ck the tranz fluid ??? best do that quick or your tranz will go south done gotta take care of that car and when you park it look 4 leaksHow do you know when automatic gears wear-out?
    At that speed the problem is in the lock up torque converter or it's solenoid. This final up shift should be into overdrive, and is controlled by a lock up torque converter solenoid. On some vehicles this is prone to go bad do to a polarity problem, and others are prone to sticking.

    If it were my car, I would add a bottle of Lucas trans. additive. It will help remove the sludge that builds up around this electro-magnetic solenoid.

    Hope this helps fix your problem. Christopher

    How do you know when automatic gears wear-out?

    Hi,



    I am new to automatic cars and I have bought an automatic car about 3-4 years ago.



    I am noticing while I am driving that when I reach a certain speed such as 60kph or 70kph the car takes a long time to shift for a new gear. I let go of the gas paddle and press the paddle again in order to try to change gears but it doesn't. After some time doing this or instead of doing this I keep on pressing the gas paddle, FINALLY the gears will change.



    Does this mean that the automatic gears are wearing-out or its normal?



    ThanksHow do you know when automatic gears wear-out?
    check to see that the transmission oil is due for change.



    if not your gear is due for a new one.
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  • What is the hardest part in driving lesson?

    im on my second lesson where we learn how to change gears, especially in uphill road. My car stopped :(

    What did i do wrong, i forgot what my instructor saidWhat is the hardest part in driving lesson?
    you did nothing worng you just lack experience. It sounds like you were not doing the speed for the gear change.What is the hardest part in driving lesson?
    wait til u get to the theory

    it is tough
    When changing gears remember to push the clutch right down, keep it there while changing gear then release it. Ease off the gas while changing gear



    Edit:

    ';wait til u get to the theory

    it is tough';



    Theory really isn't that hard. It's just a case of studying and remembering the answers to the questions. The questions and answers you find in the books or on the CDs are basically the same as what you get in the actual test so as long as you study before hand you'll be fine.

    Bike Gears Basics???

    I bought a new bike today. It has two dials, One on the left, 1-3 and the other is 1-7. I allways rode on free style bikes and have no clue how to use it. The bike manual cinfused me even more.



    Can you tell me:

    1. how to use the gears?

    2. when should I change gears(uphill...downhill... flat)?

    3. how do I turn it to the higher gears because getting to on the right is impossible?



    and



    4.What is the difference betwwen the left gears and the right gears?



    *Note: Please do not use any complex terms for I will not understand.*Bike Gears Basics???
    a used ta have a mountain/gear bike too before i sold it but I still know how to work and ride the bike. Tha left is for tha big sprokets and tha right is for tha individual gears. I'm more of a racer however I'll help u as much as I can. I can't explain **** very well. If u ok with it I live in Chicago. Tha South Side. I live at 64th street. I can teach u personally if u come here and meet me on tha parking lot in Central and Archer. I will be by a Baskin Robbins and across tha street from a 7 eleven.Bike Gears Basics???
    Not a professional, yet I start by knowing that usually a bike has 5 to 7 gears on the back, in combination with the two front gears it could be a fourteen or a ten speed bike. Consider the small gear on the back to be used in combination with any of the two front gears for flat surface or even downhill areas. The big gear on the back in combination with the two front gears to be used for uphill surfaces, an easier ride and even for speed depending on your strength I hope this information is helpful.
    Wow, sounds like you forget to breathe on a regular basis.



    You're going to have to put forth some EFFORT to understand a few things, but they're really not that difficult. Ready?



    You have a Right hand and a Left hand, correct? You have a brake lever on each end of your handlebars, as well as a shifter, right?



    You have a Front and a Rear brake, and a Front %26amp; Rear derailleur that shifts gears.



    Your Right hand controls everything in the Rear, which are your rear brake and rear derailleur. The left hand is for the front.



    When you go out for a ride, put your LEFT shifter in ';2'; and leave it there. Don't mess with it, or it'll just confuse you.



    Now just concentrate on the Rear shifter. The lower gears (1, 2 %26amp; 3) will allow you to pedal easier up hills, but you will ';spin out'; when going down hill. The higher gears (5, 6 %26amp;7) will let you go faster, but may be too difficult to climb hills with.



    Get the idea yet? You shift gears according to the terrain you are on. Lower gears for climbing, higher gears for speed.



    Once you have the rear shifting down SOLID, then try adding the front derailleur in. With the front on ';1'; it will be VERY easy to pedal, and on ';3'; it will be very hard but you will go faster.



    If that's just too much, try a singlespeed.
    It is all about the difference between the size of two gears. Small gears up front combined with big gears in the back give you a lot of power but not much speed. That's good for going up hills. Big gears up front combined with small gears in the back give you a lot of speed but not much power. That's good for going down hills. You select which gears you want by moving the chain from one gear to another. The left shifter moves the chain from one front gear to another. The right shifter moves the chain from one back gear to another. To start, put everything in the middle. Move the chain from one back gear to another as the terrain changes. When you run out of back gears, change a front gear. This is a simplification, but it's enough to get you going.



    HTH
    Get out and ride it. You will catch on very quickly.



    The left shifter is for the front crank mounted gears. The right shifter is for the rear wheel mounted gears.



    Change the gears only while pedaling.



    Rear gears: larger gear -- lower number on your shifter -- equal easier pedaling -- slower riding, climbing.



    Front gears: larger gear -- larger number on your shifter -- equal harder pedaling -- faster riding, down hills.



    Take your bike to an open area -- such as an empty parking lot or quiet street. Ride it and try each gear. Most of your flat riding will be in the middle or large gear in the front and the middle gear in the back.



    NOW go out and have fun with it!



    Edit: I was supposed to add this link for you and forgot.

    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
    the basics is to make your pumping efforts effective in propelling the bike as in mph you need to find the gear that makes your legs move fluently and still have some resistance to make your pedaling productive......the small gears are usualy used for up hill and flat surfaces the larger makes your pumping productive in flat and downhill ride it and test how it feels to you this is the best way to learn you need to be one with the bike and get a fecal for the shift soon you will learn to shift slightly before the grade changes and you go with the flow happy biking see you on the tour de France I'm sorta in the end of the line
    for i went by ';feel';when i went up Hill used the gears that would make it easier and on flats i used the same ';feel';,to use the the right gears that the rear derailleur move it one way or the other and look for a change in the position its in .the right is the back if the bike smaller gears are got for speed bigger ones are for going up hill left is for the front of the bike the smaller gear is for going up hill and the bigger is for speed if ya still have pr obs with the the bike go to the nearest bike shop advice is free and they can explain it allot better be kool
    Ok, take a look at your bike. Where the pedals are, there are 3 chainrings (the name for the gears at the front). These are switched between with the left hand shifter (1-3). Bigger is harder to pedal (or faster).

    On the back wheel is the cassette (the name for the bit with 7 different size gears). These are adjusted by the rear derailleur (the bit that the chain goes through and where the cable from the right gear shifter goes to). On here, smaller is harder, bigger easier.

    Confused? If you think that the bigger the gap between sizes from front to rear the harder it is to pedal and the smaller the gap the easier it is, that might help.

    To use the gears (they sound like gripshift from your description of a dial), rotate the part of the grip attached to the shifter unit. Do this while pedalling, but not pushing too hard on the pedals. Practise will show how much or little pressure is needed.

    Changing gear. It is most efficient to pedal at 70-90 rpm (full turns of the pedals per minute). Count when your right foot reaches the bottom of the pedal stroke to try this. The idea of changing gear is to maintain this effort level, rather than exert yourself too much pushing the pedals round in too high a gear (pushing hard, pedals going round slowly). The pedals should just be spinning round without you pushing them hard. Try riding the bike with the chain on the middle of the 3 rings at the front and see how it feels to alter the gears at the back (dont forget, smaller harder, bigger easier). Once happy with this, experiment with the 3 gears at the front(smaller easier, bigger harder).

    Without seeing the bike it is impossible to say which direction the gear shifters rotate in to make the gearing higher or lower, but if you go out and have a bit of a play as I've described above, you should be fine.

    Enjoy.

    Why does my car shift gears when i release the gas pedal?

    I have a 2002 Ford Focus ZTS, Automatic, 16 valve, DOHC.

    My car takes forever to change gears from 1st to 2nd. It used to change smoothly at 15mph but now even if I LET GO of the gas pedal it keeps accelerating until it changes gears, and when it does, the car gives a semi-hard kick. This is only for the 1st shift. After going into 2nd gear, I hit the 25mph mark and if I LET GO of the gas pedal, the car CHANGES gears and gives a little kick. If I DON';T let go of the gas pedal the RPM will go up to 3,000 and then shift gears. I feel like it wastes a lot of gas like that. The rest of the gears are the same at 35mph and 45mph. It almost makes me feel like i'm driving a manual(standard) car when it's an automatic. What do you think it is? Please help. How do I fix it?Why does my car shift gears when i release the gas pedal?
    Bring it to a mechanic, probably it has a problem in transmission already.

    Anyone know how to replace gear selector for automatic v-8 2000 ford explorer?

    Gears work just fine but when change gears red neddle stays in same place (P). Any help would be appeciated right now have instrument cluster out and guess i just need to pull wire tight but think I need to take off steering column cover but not sure how to get it off. Thanks JeffAnyone know how to replace gear selector for automatic v-8 2000 ford explorer?
    It's not the selector you need to replace. It's ';PRNDL'; indicator. Yes, you need to remove the upper and lower column shrouds. To do this, turn the ignition to the RUN position. Using a straight pick, insert into the hole underneath the lock cylinder and depress the lock detent, while pulling the lock cylinder outward at the same time. Place the selector in the lowest selection (1). Remove the steering column tilt lever by grabbing it with a pair of vise grips and twisting it counterclockwise. Now remove the two steering column shroud halves by removing the three screws that secure the two together from underneath. Now remove the one screw that secures the ';PRNDL'; cable to the gear selector lever. You may need to lower the entire steering column assembly to gain the clearance needed to remove the cluster assembly. Hope this helps.

    Bike Gears?

    So I just got my bike fixed for the summer and I want to know how to use the gears while I ride. It has the 123 on the left and 1234567 on the right, what does that do? I understand it has to do with how the wheels turn to your peddling, but it doesn't quite make 100% sense to me. If you can really break it down and explain it: how it works, when to change gears, where to shift it to depending on the hill size, etc. I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!Bike Gears?
    The left gears are located at the pedals and make 'major' adjustments. The right gears are in the rear wheel and make 'minor' adjustments. They overlap to some extent (for example, left 2 and right 1 is a lower gear than left 1 and right 7). You want to change gears so that you are pedalling at the same pace and effort. Uphill, reduce gear so you aren't putting strain on your leg muscles and knees. Downhill, increase gear so you aren't just spinning the pedals uselessly, and so you can achieve good speed. On rough surfaces, knobby, bumpy or muddy surfaces, reduce gear. Increase gear on smooth surfaces.
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  • Help?? Bicycle Gears.?

    Whenever i change gear on my bike it always slips and clanks and doesn't always stay in that gear, especially when pedaling hard. How can i fix this problem? The gears just slip from one to another and clank literally all the time?



    Thanks in advanceHelp?? Bicycle Gears.?
    A very quick answer to help you out!



    Where the gear cable enters the rear derailleur there is usually a star shaped plastic nut, turn this half a turn clockwise if that doesn't help try half a turn anti-clockwise and see if it makes any difference! (if it helps, then further adjustments will cure your problem)



    If none of the above helps, your gears and/or chain are worn and need replacing!



    No lengthy answers

    No silly long winded websites.



    Simple innit?



    .Help?? Bicycle Gears.?
    Could be a number of things, need for adjustment, lubrication ?
    Sounds like when your pedaling hard is because your climbing a hill and exerting. It does need adjustment. Either you spend the time with lots of trial and error or ask a friend who has knowledge. Take it to a bike shop and a little money on hand maybe they will teach you to adjust. It really isn't that hard.
    It could be as simple as a derailleur adjustment or your chain and/or cassette gears are worn.



    If you're not comfortable doing the work yourself, take it in to your local bike shop and they can help you out. If it is worn gears, you should replace the entire drivetrain (shain, gears and chainrings).
    If you need to ask, then you are probably better off taking in to your local bike shop. If you don't know how to adjust your derailleurs (which, FYI, is you r problem), then any attempt that you make will just make your problem even worse. Your best bet is to go to your LBS and have them do a tune up. It could be anything from a simple adjustment to a chipped cog to a dirty chain.



    Regardless, a tune up will fix your problem.
    OnlyMeMrG is right on track here. Over time your derailleur cables will stretch and shifting performance will suffer. Thus bicycle makers put at least one barrel adjuster and perhaps two on your bicycle.



    One barrel adjuster will be where the cable enters the rear derailleur. If you bike has a second adjuster it will be somewhere handy to twiddle while riding. It may be on the cable near your shifter, or perhaps affixed to your bike at a cable guide. If you have two barrel adjusters, you can use either one to tighten the cable. If I need to make an adjustment while off the bike, I use the one at the derailleur. While riding, I use the other.



    In any case, it is almost certain that your cable has stretched over time. The easiest way to check for stretch is to shift into your highest gear (the smallest rear cog.) If your cable is loose, then it has stretched.



    To take up the stretch, screw the barrel adjuster out a half turn (should be counter-clockwise.) This should help a bit, but perhaps not entirely fix the problem. If it helps, give it another half turn and check again. If you turn the barrel adjuster and the cable gets slacker, you are turning it the wrong way.



    When your derailleur is properly adjusted (indexed in cycling parlance) your chain will not only stop hopping around, it will run nice and smoothly, and your shifts will be crisp and precise.



    If you get your derailleurs properly indexed, but the chain doesn't seem to want to engage real nicely, you may have a worn out chain, cassette and chainrings. This will necessitate a trip to the bicycle shop for a bunch of parts. More than likely, though, all you need is a bit of adjusting.



    Hope this helps you out.
    In all liklihood the you will just need to do an adjustment but

    if you have a lot of miles on it the chain the rear cluster may be excessively worn. If this is the case and they do need to replaced. You will also need to replace the chain as well.
    Sounds like your bike is either totally outa whack adjustment wise, or your cassette/chain is shot. Have a shop put a chain gauge on it and go from there.
    Sounds like the gear block and chain are worn out.

    You will need new replacements.

    Is dropping gears in a car to accelerate quickly then change back gears bad on the engine? if so, how?

    i heard from a friend its good to accelerate quicklyIs dropping gears in a car to accelerate quickly then change back gears bad on the engine? if so, how?
    That depends upon how often you do it as well as how high you run the engine rpm. It wears the engine out more quickly and increases heat. Doing so occasionally will cause so little damage that you can neglect it. Running your engine at its limits all the time will ruin it. That's why race cars are rebuilt so often.



    You are right. It does make acceleration easier. It also adds to the stress on the engine. Also you should not overload the engine by running in too high a gear. That too is bad. Anything that runs too fast or too slow or causes an abnormal increase in temperature or fuel use should be avoided if possible.Is dropping gears in a car to accelerate quickly then change back gears bad on the engine? if so, how?
    So long as you don't grind the gears and then rev the engine into the red then you should be ok.
    It will kill your gas mileage, but not hard on the engine. It will help keep the carbon from building up on your pistons. Just make sure you keep up on your oil changes and keep ALL fluids topped off.



    All of my beaters are driven real hard and they seem to last.
    Heck no, automatic transmission cars have depended on that for a long time.

    Push the pedal to the floor and it down shifts if it isn't already going to fast :)
    Sometimes it's necessary but don't over do it.

    How do you not burn your clutch?

    I drive like a normal person. Dont have my foot resting on the clutch when driving. Dont hold it in when at a traffic light. I let the clutch out when your supposed to in 1st gear. When I shift I let my foot off the gas, fully engage the clutch, change gears, let the clutch out slowly while engaging the gas. Why do I get a faint smell of burning rubber when I step out of my car? I drive 09 civic si manualHow do you not burn your clutch?
    there could be oil on the clutch and burning. 09? take it back and tell them to fix it. don,t you bother it or it could ruin your warranty.How do you not burn your clutch?
    A burnt clutch does NOT smell like burnt rubber. Smells more like brakes do when you overheat them. You have something else going on there.
    sounds like you're taking off fine, but when you're shifting, maybe do it differently. let off the gas and push the clutch all the way at the same time. Shift, let it out fast and hit the gas at the same time. Or just dont use the clutch to shift, your honda has a fully synchronized transmission.
    no need to have your foot on the gas pedal before the clutch pedal is out \\\let the clutch out slowly while engaging the gas////

    the clutch should not slip.
    Mustang... is correct - you're not smelling burnt clutch if it smells like rubber. A burnt clutch smells almost exactly like burnt brake pad, which is a sharp, slightly acrid organic-metallic smell.



    If its a very low-mileage or new 09 model, you might just be smelling the bedding-in process on your brakes, gaskets and whatnot. Try popping the hood and see if the smell is slightly stronger there. If so, keep an eye on it, but otherwise, it sounds like the smell of a new car breaking in.
    check your air pressure in your tires they are prolly low and the culprit of the rubber smell
    that is a lever use it like one do not ride it/ thats what you are doing

    Help with my Mountain Bike Gears!!!!!?

    I just got a new Diamondback Sorento mountain bike but never had a bike with gears...used to get cycle bikes

    but

    how the hell are you supposed to use the gears..

    i have a slight idea..but i have no clue..

    all i kno is..its a 21 speed

    and WHEN am i supposed to change gears..

    everytime i do..theres this displeasing crunching sound

    like i'm breaking it or something....

    is it ok to change while biking...

    and will the sound go away when i start to learn how to use the gears properly?Help with my Mountain Bike Gears!!!!!?
    First, there is a thing or 2 to understand when shifting your new bike.



    1) You must be pedalling anytime you shift... this means no playing with the shifter when standing still, and



    2) Looking at the shifters, when both are at ';1'; you are in ';easy'; gear, and when they are at ';3'; and ';7'; you are in ';hard'; gear.



    To shift:



    Get on the bike and start riding. As you pedal, shift one side or the other... but not both at the same time. Lower numbers mean easier gears (like for going up hills), higher numbers mean harder gears (like for on flat areas or for picking up speed).



    Move the shifter only until it 'clicks'. It should go right into gear. If it doesn't it probably needs a quick cable adjustment... this is VERY common on new bikes, there is nothing wrong with it.



    Try and shift your bike to lower gears BEFORE going up inclines. When placing a lot of pressure on the pedals the derailleurs don't like it (but you won't hurt anything).



    There is only one gear combination that you shouldn't use on your bike... that is ';3'; on the left side (front) and ';1'; on the right side. This places stress on the chain and will always make noise.



    Make sure to take your bike back for the free checkup. Things settle in and stretch during the first few rides and adjustments will be required to keep your bike riding right.



    Have fun!Help with my Mountain Bike Gears!!!!!?
    The big gear in the front coupled with the smallest gear in the back is your high speed gear, for going down hills or with the wind at your back



    Reverse this ... little gear in front and big on in the back is for going up hills.



    some combinations you are not supposed to use ... bi in front and big in back.. hard on chain and lots of things.



    same with little in front and back- don't use.



    start off with the chain in the middle gears front and back and just move the rear gears.



    then back to the middle middle and just move the front chain rings.



    stay on the flat for a while and see how minor changes affect your speed and resistance.



    only move one gear at a time.



    good luck
    it's best to shift only while you are pedaling.. don't shift then pedal it feels bad. shift down when you go up a slope or come to a red light ( so you can accelerate easy when light turns green)

    as you gain speed and you pedal faster, shift up



    DO NOT SHIFT WHEN YOU ARE NOT PEDALING

    How do I know if I need a tune up?

    I have a 2000 ford escort and it it does not seem to change gears easily when I am accelrating. Do I need a tune up?How do I know if I need a tune up?
    you might need a new transmission.



    if you have a standard, it might be the clutch if you have an automatic might be more...



    for sure get your oil changed and change the air filter.



    when you fill up your car check your mpg and if you see a big drop that's a sign you need a tune up.



    tune ups are usually spark plugs or fuel injection adjustments, if you car isn't shifting that's usually the trans.



    How do I know if I need a tune up?
    Transmission oil change is what you need.

    The oil in there is getting old and sticky.
    possibly a transmission service. a tune up would more often than not affect poor idling or performance. it sounds like you have a transmission issue.
    You definitely do not need a tune up. Be wary of anyone who tells you that you need a tune up for your transmission problem: http://repairpal.com/tune-up-what-is-it



    You may only need a transmission fluid change, but it could be more serious, like a powertrain control module or the transmission itself. The best thing you can do is go to a good, honest shop and get the problem diagnosed and fixed.
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  • Quad gears **help**? mechanical help needed?

    hey ive had my 250 cc quad around 1 month and i let my little bro ride its and he wasn't to goo with the gears and when he came back with the quad the leaver to change up and down gear was very slack, and to change gear not i have to get the leaver in a 90 degree angle





    any ideas what wrong and how much it will cost ?

    and what parts i would need ?



    many thanks please help me :)Quad gears **help**? mechanical help needed?
    inside the transmission case the teeth that are attached to the shifting peg may have just popped off or the cable came loose

    How much can I adjust my clutch ?

    I have a VW Polo, I have to press my clutch down to the floor now to change gear and the gears are beginning to crunch a little when changed. The clutch is not slipping yet. I wondered how much adjustment I would have available and how long it would last. The clutch has been in the car from new and it is 8 years old now.



    Thanks in advanceHow much can I adjust my clutch ?
    your clutch is fine...cable may be stretched needing replaced...now if its a hydrolic[no cable] it may need bleeding...How much can I adjust my clutch ?
    8 years ! You have no more adjustment , you need a new clutch.............
    I would say it's just the cable out of adjustment: If the clutch is worn out, it tends to bite somewhere near the top of it's travel, not at the bottom.
    Until you cant adjust it any more !

    Then ya got to replace it
    To adjust your clutch the rule of thumb is to get the paddle in line with the foot brake and to do that is to adjust the nut on the end of the cable but if its self adjust it a new clutch fit
    if you have to go that far, before you can change gears, then its time for a new pressure plate and clutch.
    its not adjustable fit a new clutch

    How long will a stick shift last if someone isn't changing gears right?

    I've been driving a stick for 3 yrs. now It's going on the second time it's gonna need to be repaired. If you don't balance out the gas pedal and the clutch is it possible to hear a noise if I'm doing it wrong. I know how to change gears that's no prob but can't figure out why in 3 yrs. I'm gonna have to have the clutch fixed again.How long will a stick shift last if someone isn't changing gears right?
    About 1.5 years based on your driving style. Impossible to guess otherwise. Drove my Honda 100,000 miles over 5 years. Still had the original clutch when I sold it.



    You will hear the noise of the engine speeding up or slowing down too rapidly if you don't release the clutch under the correct conditions.How long will a stick shift last if someone isn't changing gears right?
    If you replacing the clutch so often then you must be dragging it.

    Hold the car on the clutch on an incline will fry it pretty fast.

    The only other reason for clutch failure that fast is bad installation leaving to much play between the flywheel and pressure plate causing the drive plate to constantly slip.

    Clutch should last 70K miles with no issues if you don't drag it all the time.
    like someone said about 1.5 years because the clutch will get grinded down till its nothing
    You are probably riding the clutch. When you don't come off the clutch and the transmission kinda revs as you shift, it can cause problems when you do it over and over. A way you can tell is to look at the tachometer and if it jumps as you shift, you might not be shifting as cleanly as you should. Something I do a lot (I don't think this will ruin your tranny though) is I'll look down and sometimes be running higher RPMs cause I never shifted into 5th...and I have been driving a standard 10 years! I hope that helped a little bit.
    The clutch is different from the Gearbox........it is normal to have the Clutch Adjusted from time to time......it all depends how much you Ride it.......you may think that you are doing it correctly and maybe you are, but, I Drive Semi and I have my Clutch Adjusted 1 - 2 times every 50,000 miles...........or like the last time, I thought it didn't sound right and it would only go into gear when it wanted to....mostly for Reverse.....I had it checked and the Clutch Brake was in 2 pieces, they replaced it and now it works like new again.......
    If it's your gearbox then it shouldn't go in three years even if you are abusing it, it will go eventually but will take longer than that.



    If it's the clutch then three years isn't really a big deal depending on your mileage.

    If you are holding the clutch then it will burn out pretty quick, in theory you can burn one out in one hit if you make a go at it.

    One of our vehicles got a stuck handbrake a couple of months back and my husband managed to burn the clutch out trying to force the vehicle to move.



    You can normally smell them when they start to get hot.
    NEVER ever use the clutch to hold a car at a light or on a hill! That means, don't keep the clutch partially depressed to keep it slipping but holding the car. That's the FASTEST way to wear out a cluch plate.



    The best way to drive a stick, and I've been driving them for 34 years, is to:



    Clutch to FLOOR. ALWAYS to the floor. Put car in 1st gear.

    Start to release the clutch while starting to depress the gas pedal. Don't over-rev the engine, and as you release the clutch, give it gas.



    Watch your RPMS and listen tot he engine. Once you get up in RPMS, and you are moving, start to RELEASE the gas pedal while starting to depress the clutch. You should NOT be giving any gas pedal as you push the clutch ALL THE WAY TO THE FLOOR. THEN, SHIFT to 2nd GEAR, and repeat the steps to release clutch while applying gas. DO this procedure for the remaining gears.



    Clutch pressure plates should last thousands of miles - provided you do not 'wear' out the pressure plate.



    ';Grinding gears'; is the noise you hear when you don't engage the clutch properly, and a highly revving engine with the clutch released or partially released might indicate the clutch is slipping and needs repair.



    There are several components, if your clutch is hydraulic.



    The master cylinder. It's job is to allow you to impart pressure in the oil to move the clutch fork to pull the clutch away from the flywheel.



    The clutch fork is moved by the slave cylinder when you push the clutch pedal.



    Then you have the clutch pressure plate itself. When the clutch is released, the spring in the clutch allows the pressure plate to mate up to the flywheel on the back of the engine. FRICTION and spring pressure holds the two together, so the motion of the flywheel is imparted to the clutch and tranny shaft.



    The clutch fork sits and pushes on the 'throw out bearing' which in turn allows the entire assembly to 'spin' in neutral. If you hear a 'grinding' or metallic' sound when the transmission is in neutral, and the clutch is released, you have a bad throwout bearing.



    That's about all there is to a clutch mechanism. If you are wearing out the pressure plates, you are not releasing the clutch properly or allowing it to slip in some manner, so that instead of engaging and 'locking up' on the face of the flywheel, it is spinning and causing wear and tear on the plate and flywheel. If you do this enough, HEAT will build up and eventually crack the material of the plate itself and it will wear or slip more.



    If you get down to the rivets and they grind into the flywheel metal, you are looking at a major cost.



    You should examine your clutching methodology and modify it to stop the wear and tear on the clutch.



    Remember this rule:



    ANYTIME you have to put your foot on the clutch, it should ALWAYS go to the floor. NEVER partial. My dad taught me that and it's never failed me. Always to the floor or not. No in-between or you will wear it out.
    Stock factory clutches cannot handle much more that granny driving, period. I could blow a Ford 3 speed from clutch abuse in about 10 days. I can be done a lot quicker, but any hard shifting on a factory manual will shorten the life considerably. Even the Mustang T-5 isn't rated for it - and can only hold 350 hp ( and 3rd gear is the weak one.) Smart hot rod builders won't even use them because they will only last a few months at best behind a stout V-8.



    The good old days of a stout factory manual never happened - even a Borg Warner T10 can't handle a 450 hp car, and frequently showed their internals on street and strip when abused. These days it takes a Richmond 5 or 6 speed rated at 600 hp ($3500) to withstand vigorous driving - compared to most automatics, which by design put up with the shock loads pretty well.



    I burned up my share of clutches, and don't own any right now, but if I did, I would rate the transmission to the workout it would get and use a dual disc clutch to operate it. And that's not cheap or factory.
    Most answers here are pretty good. The only thing I can add is that neutral is your friend. Never down shift just use your brakes. Brakes are a lot cheaper and easier to fix then problems with your transmission. Also if your in heavy traffic just keep it in second gear. You can usually go from 0 to 30 on most cars without having to shift to other gears. The same goes for light traffic. Keep it in your high gear even if the traffic slows down a little. You won't accelerate back up to speed as fast but it will save your gears some wear and tear. Bottom line is save it when you can and go easy on the shifting and it should last you a lot longer.

    How should i switch my gears when raceing? READ DETAILS!?

    i have a 98 dodge neon 4 cylinder automatic, and i am wanting to race a friend but i need to know if my car will go faster if i put it in first then 2nd then drive, or just put it in drive and go? if i do put it in first then 2nd then drive at wat speed do i change gears?How should i switch my gears when raceing? READ DETAILS!?
    I would skip low as the Car will reach only 15-18 MPH at Max RPMs You can achieve a better result Srarting off in 2nd gear. An automatic Transmission in drive will make 2 shifts 1st one at about 15-20 MPH--2nd Shift at 27-35 Mph You can eliminate the 1st shift in the Drive Gear by starting out in 2nd winding the car to max RPM then shifting to drive. But remember with a stock transmission and torque converter it wont take this kind of abuse too long without damaging the transmissions clutches and Bands!!!!!How should i switch my gears when raceing? READ DETAILS!?
    just race with scooters or something because by the looks of it... you might cause a freak accident..
    sorry to say this but your car is too slow anyways...it should be better to just rev it up in nuetral and pull it down to drive.....

    Tips on driving a manual transmission?

    I got no idea how to drive manual and tomorrow i start practicing at my driving school. I'm sure the guy driving with me will tell me what i gotta do but im still nervous. Anyone got any tips or something? I seriously got no clue how to change gears, i only know how to drive automatic cars.Tips on driving a manual transmission?
    It takes practice, but it's pretty easy. Push the clutch down and put the car into 1st gear, slowly push down on the accelerator at the same time slowly lift your foot off the clutch, once you get to about 3500 RPM, take your foot off the accelerator, push the clutch down and put into second gear and repeat process. Once the car is in motion, changing gears is pretty easy. It's the 1st gear that could be tough.Tips on driving a manual transmission?
    well then, I guess you're going to learn starting tomorrow. I won't give you any tips because I don't want to interfere with what your instructor is going to teach.
    relax and don't worry thats what the instructor is for and I am sure he's taught many many people who had never touched a manual before
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  • When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?

    Theres a lot of life in the brake pads and the brakes seem to work fine in doing what they do, its just that at the very end, right before the car comes to a complete halt, no matter how lightly i apply the brakes, it stops suddenly with a crunching noise. it sounds as if the brake pads squeeze the rotors too hard or something. it sounds as if it needs to be lubricated somewhere. This will also occur when I change gears and I have my foot on the brake. Thanks in advance!When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
    I just had a similar situation happen two weeks ago. It could be brake pads -- which could be like $150. If it has damaged the rotors, you are looking at something more like $450 - $600. One thing you should check is if there has been a recall on the brakes. I have a Ford 500 with 65,000 miles on it -- but because of the recall, I didn't pay a penny. I am usually not that lucky -- believe me!!!



    Either way, get it in and checked. The longer you wait -- the more likely the problem will be bigger -- and more costly. Plus the safety issue of just having your brakes work properly.



    Good luck.When I apply the brakes on my car, theres a crunch noise at the end, and it stops kind of suddenly. Any ideas?
    May I suggest you buy a new car lol xx
    Sounds like you could have dirt or some sort of debris stuck in between your rotors %26amp; brake pads
    No idea, sorry... Try going to a mechanic... High prices, though
    Sounds like your rotor or shoe is bad. Go to a good mechanic if you have one that gives you a free brake inspection.
    it sounds to me like the brake caliper on your car may be loose. get a prybar and try to shift it back and forth, if it moves at all then that's your problem.
    Mine did something like that a while back, ended up being that the break pads or whatever they are attached to was on too tight.
    Do you know for sure that all of your brakes are in good condition. It sounds like the rear which in most cases are drum with shoes are in bad shape. If you have all wheel disk brakes than ?? If you have front disk and rear drum then check above.

    How do adjust the clutch pack on a honda 400 foreman?

    the clutch shoes seem to be fine. it is not slipping. just a little hard to change

    gears.How do adjust the clutch pack on a honda 400 foreman?
    have you tried to grease the gears?

    Is it the clutch or the starter that keeps my old nissan from starting?

    It's not the battery- It's getting power to the lights- but it just won't even try to turn over. It's a 1992 nissan with the original clutch- 111,000 miles on it- and it's been stuttering a little when I change gears lately- how much does a clutch replacement run? should I bother on such an old pickup?Is it the clutch or the starter that keeps my old nissan from starting?
    I own a 1994 Nissan Altima. Less than 2 weeks ago, I would turn my key and get nothing but lights, not even an attempt by the engine to turn over. It turned out that I had a bad starter.



    I would recommend speaking with a certified mechanic, someone you can trust dealing with an issue such as this. If you know someone who knows cars, have them come out and take a look.Is it the clutch or the starter that keeps my old nissan from starting?
    If theres no noise and it won't turn over at all, it's the starter.
    Get down there where the clutch pedal is my friend. look for a little plastic stopper on the clutch pedal where the neutral safety switch is. these break a lot. When they do pushing the clutch doesnt depress the neutral safety switch that lets the vehicle know that you are pushing the clutch pedal. Under that condition the computer wont send power to the starter. dont rig it. go to the dealer and buy a new one. its flat on one side and pointed on the other and fits into a hole on the clutch pedal. its a 30 cent piece that will make the car dead. Do yourself a favor... buy an extra one and change the one on the brake pedal too. dont rig it... go to the dealer. Ask for the little plastic stopper that pushes the brake light and neutral safety switch button. they sell loads of em they will know what you are talking about.

    How to change gear ratio of a steering to 1:1 or 1:2 for a formula car?

    well you get yourself a furmula gear box silly

    How to drive an auto transimission car faster with changing the gears?

    hey guys...i nid help..my gears have P,R,N,D,2 my fren told me to start with 2 and change back to D for faster speed..it was but i want to know when to change gears...or any other way to go faster...dun tell me to upgrade my performance because i dun have enough cash at the moment =P by the way i am driving a PROTON SATRIA 1.6 AUTO..i did not do not install any performance on the car but the car is fast enough for me though..so any suggestion?? thx ya =)How to drive an auto transimission car faster with changing the gears?
    Your friend is right, to some extent. This will not allow the vehicle to go faster than it's normal speed limit, but this will help it to get there faster. Not good on your engine, though. Keep this in mind if you love you car. Alias.How to drive an auto transimission car faster with changing the gears?
    unless it has the auto where u can actually ';shift'; your car, you definitely cant go through ur gears. accelerating faster (pedal to the floor) might help make ur car shift at higher revs which would help alot, but its kinda hard in an automatic. starting out in 2nd drive, then going into drive can help, but its definitely not that great for ur car and wouldnt wanna do it that often.....and im sorry to tell you this but i mean u have to realize u have a 1.6 litre engine, i dont know how fast your hoping/expecting to go but you can only do so much
    Leave the transmission in ';D'; and step harder on that pedal next to the brake on the right.



    Seriously, playing with the gears won't make it go any faster. If you start in 2 you might be able to get to a speed a bit faster, but at the cost of possible strain to the engine.
    You can't change gears on an Automatic if you want to accelerate, only way is what your friend told you, start in two then switch to D. Otherwie, get a manual, then you have 1st gear, 2nd gear, 3rd gear, 4, 5, and 6th gear
    It is not faster when your pedal hits the floor it will shift down a gear to help you accelerate. The only thing i know that could give faster auto shifts is to prevent the slipping created at the manufacterer to reduce shift shock.
    I tried doing that for a while and it didn't help with the speed. I did in fact tore up the transmission and costed me around $2000.
    gas pedal to floor.
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  • How do you transition from career mom to stay at home. ?

    I have a 13, 4, and 2 yr old and have always worked alot of hours. My husband now has a second job and I have drastically reduced my hours. Any tips or advice how to change gears.How do you transition from career mom to stay at home. ?
    When I had my daughter it was very easy to stay home! After working in the nursing field for nine years and seeing everything I did, staying home was an easy choice! Just make sure you have a routine so the day is not so monotonous. Join a civic group or some kind of club to keep yourself ';you';. It's easy to forget your self otherwise. Most of all, enjoy being with your kids!How do you transition from career mom to stay at home. ?
    Run your house like an office your the manager and the Kids are the employees.



    IF you don't work you don't eat. Ha ha I'm playing I don't know casue daytime TV is HORRRIBLLE
    Find exciting activities that you can get yourself and your children involved in. Keep yourself busy by doing projects around the house and doing new things with your kids. You might want to consider some type of stay-at-home money maker just so you can have a few dollars of your own to spend. If you have internet access you could probably find many ideas to keep yourself busy.
    I have always been a stay at home mom, working about 3 or 4 days a month. I'm actually getting ready to change roles after the first of the year. I'm going to work full-time while my husband is going to part-time. Anyway, the main thing you need to remember is to take time for yourself. Take a break now and then and go out to lunch with one of your friends. You need to have an ADULT social life too. If you stay at home all the time, you can risk getting depressed, not because your life is lacking, but because you can get in a rut of the same old thing, cleaning house, cooking meals, talking with children all day long. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE being at home with my kids, but I needed to work that 3 or 4 days a month just so I could have adult conversation. Plus, I would go out with friends a day or so a month. Just keep your life well-rounded, and you will LOVE staying at home. Your kids will love you being home more too. Good luck and Congratulations mom.......
    Begin to dabble in new hobbies if you feel as though you have extra time outside of taking care of the kids. Working so much and family time can often create less and less time for yourself so maybe begin to workout or do whatever you enjoy doing. Staying at home gives you an oppurtunity for home improvement on different levels.
    Get a network of friends and support during the day. Don't discount full time mums as being no hopers, or people you may not be interested in socialising with. Use your networking skils from work, and transfer them to your home and life with your children.



    Enhjoy the change of pace, enjoy spending time with your children.