Monday, November 22, 2010

89 Acura Legend, starts but engine turns off when changing gears?

Hi, This problem started happening yesterday after the rain. The floor of my car was all filled with water. I didnt leave the windows open and the seats were all dry but the floor was like a river. So i dried it as much as i could. Now my car starts fine but the engine turns off when i'm changing gears to reverse or drive or anything. Sometimes it will just shut off when i press the break. After about 10 tries it lets me get past changing the gear but will still turn off after 20 secs of driving. The rpms are going crazy all while all this is happening and its jerking back and forth like crazy. Can anyone please help me in identifying what the problem is or how i can fix it?89 Acura Legend, starts but engine turns off when changing gears?
It's hard to say for sure, but the fact that the interior of the car got wet means the exterior also got wet. I'd say the distributor is wet and the ignition is at fault. Try some ignition drying spray in and around the distributor cap.89 Acura Legend, starts but engine turns off when changing gears?
u prob have a short in the wiring - esp if the car was filled with water like u mentioned - bring it in or get it towed to a mechanic...

No gears on bike any help welcome?

ive just got a mountain bike and it has got just the chain from the back wheel to the pedals but not the things that move it when you change gears.Im trying to find out what i need and a rough guess at how much it might cost to fix.No gears on bike any help welcome?
You'll probably have to take it to a bicycle shop to have the parts that you require ( transmisstion/shifting linkage/shifting cables ), but this could get expensive. Talk to a bike shop %26amp; see if they can work with you on the price. Goodl luck!No gears on bike any help welcome?
Probably more than it's worth. If it's a Murry, Huffy, Magna, Pacific, I'd trash it. You're talking over $100 anyway you look at it. And you need to know what you're doing to install all of these parts.
I assume that it's got all the cogs at the back and it's not a single speed?



If it's a single speed then why not run it as a single speed? If it's got lots of cogs at the back but no derailleur, why not run it as a single speed?



With a bit of practise, you could move up to fixed wheel !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You got a one-speed bike.



Is it a Redline Monocog?

How do car gears operate?

While driving to work today I became curious as to how the gears in a car actually work. Why does the car go faster by changing gears and what actually happens when changing from one gear to the next?How do car gears operate?
Your transmisson has multiple gears that vary in diameter. They can connect to the main drive or power gear as needed.



The size of the gear affects how quickly the it turns in relation to the drive gear.



To get the car moving, it takes a great deal of force, so the gear is large and it turns slowly in relation to the drive gear giving power vs speed.



As the car gains speed, the transmission changes to a smaller one, which turns faster relative to the drive gear.



Finally when you are at cruisng speed the smallest gear engages turning at nearly the same speed as the drive gear.



If you go up a hill and the effort needed by the motor is increased, then the smallest gear dis-engages and the transmission downshifts to a larger gear - giving the power to lift the car up the hill.



If you want to see this in action, look at a 12 speed-bike. As the chain moves from larger to smaller gears, the effort need to turn the wheel changes.



If you ride with someone who uses a manual transmission, they listen the strain on the engine to decide when to shift from one gear to another.How do car gears operate?
Automobile transmission are very complex machinery and explaining it will require a lot of pages. To explain it to you in a nutshell, when you shift gears in a manual transmission vehicle, the gear stick is connected to a whats called ';gear fork'; which basically moves a primary gear around other already moving gears caused by the combustion from the motor. These gears that are already moving is the gears for your 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 5th drive speed. The primary gear basically detaches everytime you shift onto another gear. Think of it as a bicycle, it has the same principle but as I said before.. way more complex.
Through a process known as ';torque multiplication';. The product of each gear ratio, along with that of the differential (or final-drive) gear, determines how much torque is delivered to the drive wheels. Starting from a dead-stop requires a much greater torque value than that required to keep the vehicle moving, so the ratio gradually decreases with the selection of higher gears.
Stay blond dear i fear the answers to this question will be beyond your comprehension.
similar to gears on a push bike.



go to wikipedia.com.....the ans

wers for everything lie there...:)
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  • My shifter wont change the gears no matter what gear i put it into, got any ideas?

    i have an auto 96 camaro v6 n the trannys working fine i just got it replaced but its stuck in reverse. I put the shifter into park and its still in reverse, same with every other gear. i think its just not catching to change the gears so anyone know how to fix that if its the problem?My shifter wont change the gears no matter what gear i put it into, got any ideas?
    sounds like the shifting cable needs adjusted or replaced. it also could be binding, not letting you change the gears.My shifter wont change the gears no matter what gear i put it into, got any ideas?
    I hope it's something as simple as the linkage same disconnected. Simple to check, get under and look to see if both lever are connected. Have someone move the lever while you watch the linkage is the easiest way. If it's ok, you've probably got a defective tranny.

    Can you give gas while changing gears (standard)?

    Last time I driven manual was when I was 9 years old. I'm getting a new manual car in 1 week. I know how to drive manual I'm sure but have just one question.



    When I'm driving the car and want to change gears, when i push the clutch in can i keep giving the car gas or do i release the gas then push the clutch in then change gears?



    I'm pretty sure you release the gas when pushing in the clutch, but just want to make sure.Can you give gas while changing gears (standard)?
    If you release the gas when you shift, you will get a smooth shift.



    If you dont let go of the gas with the clutch in, then you will rev the engine up.Can you give gas while changing gears (standard)?
    Depends on the car. Some cars have ';no lift shifting'; which means you keep the clutch pedal down and just accelerate and change gears. Other than those vehicles you don't apply gas until after your clutch engages...even with heel to toe downshifting you aren't on the gas pedal when you're shifting.

    How to shift gears in my R15?

    Hello there.. I have bought a brand new R15.. I'm really exited about it. I wanted to ask .. whats the right way of changing gears? i.e. :- At what RPM should u normally change the gear and how not to make that click noise while shifting gears ??? especially while lowering the gear... cuz... Some of my friends told that it could harm the bikes clutch bell or something... Pls help me out... !!!How to shift gears in my R15?
    there is no set point (RPM) you should shift. It all depends on how much power you want or need. If your trying to pick up speed quickly like getting on a HWY then shift at or right below red line. You downshift so your in the right gear when its time to get back on the gas. Depends on where your bike has the most power.



    You can also skip the clutch all together (except for taking off from a stop) by reloading the shifter. That would be pull up slightly on it with your foot while accelerating. When it's time to shift quickly let off the gas and re apply it. It will pop right into gear. And no that's not hard on the clutch or tranny.How to shift gears in my R15?
    Haha, that click is normal, just make sure you've got the clutch in all the way. The I often shift 1k before redline. Your friends aren't very smart.

    How easy is it to swap/change/fix gears in a motorcycle?

    I'm looking at a 1990 Suzuki Katana that has 13,000 original miles, but the 3rd gear is stripped out and does not work. The guy selling the bike already has a spare engine for parts. How easy is it and how long would it take to fix the problem?How easy is it to swap/change/fix gears in a motorcycle?
    Is the rest of the bike in very good condition and/or is the selling price cheap ? Is the spare engine OK, if it is the easiest fix is to just change out the engine. If the spare engine is no good you could still probably get the needed gears out of it. In order to repair the tranny you will have to pull the engine, remove left+right engine covers, clutch and ignition plate to access any thing that holds the cases together. There will probably be some case bolts on top and bottom of the cases find them ALL. You do not have to pull the head or cylinder. Probably what happened was that the bike has been crashed and fell on the shifter which forced the shift and bent the shift fork, consquently, two or more gears have now become damaged from slipping by. It is a big job and probably not for the home mechanic, but hey, by a manual and try to repair it as a winter project.How easy is it to swap/change/fix gears in a motorcycle?
    It is a major job, you will have to split the case. I do most of my own work on everything I own and it would be a job I would take to the shop to have done. He is selling the bike for this reason, do not buy this bike, it will cost more to fix it than it is really worth.
    do your self a favor buy something else,more than likely the bike was beat to lose 3rd.there may be other problems you DONT know about.keep looking there everywhere.

    When riding off road when do you change your gears?

    i was just thinking, if u go mountain biking how do u find the right gear to use and when do u change it? is it just b4 the terrain changes or the slope changes?When riding off road when do you change your gears?
    Well it takes practice and experience along with good working equipment. Changing the rear gears is quite intuitive and fast. Learning to change exactly when you need to is a learned skill. Too late and you will bog on a hill, too early and you will waste momentum.



    The real skill is when you need to change the front rings. Whenever you change your front gears there is a big jump in the ratio compared to the rear shifts. The most difficult transitions for newbies are the up hills, knowing if you need to shift chain rings or rear cogs or both. Things can happen so fast, you really need the skill to make it 2nd nature. The best way to learn the skill is to ride the same trail over and over. Every time you ride it you want to perfect your shifts to maximize speed and reduce out of cadence gears that slow you down. Experiment with technique. Of course this is easier if your not trying to ride as fast as possible.



    Even experienced riders have difficulty on new trails. Many gear selections I use are based not only on what's in front of me but what's coming up next as well.



    Finally, if you're a very strong rider you can fudge at times by pushing a hard gear either by mistake or to maximize speed on a piece of trail coming up. If you're a weak rider you will find yourself doing a lot more shifting. The whole point is to keep yourself in your most efficient cadence range.
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  • How do you change the gears in a 1954 Willy's Overland Pickup to a higher gear ratio?

    At the moment the truck's max speed is about 45mph. I need it to go 70-80mph. Does anyone know how to do this?How do you change the gears in a 1954 Willy's Overland Pickup to a higher gear ratio?
    With out changing the transmission (or all the gears in it) change the final drive (the differential) or rear axle assembly.How do you change the gears in a 1954 Willy's Overland Pickup to a higher gear ratio?
    U have to change the RING GEAR %26amp; PINON you mostlikely have a gear ratio of about 5.56:1 you need about 3.90:1 to run 80 comfortablely there on store online that sell them and also an army surplus store may bea able to help U.

    My bike gears change constantly and on their own?

    It's the back gear that keeps switching and the front gear is always on the lowest wheel (out of two). I would love to know how to set the back gear.

    Somebody told me that it was derailed and it would be amazing if someone could just tell me where or how to fix it that would be awesome (or, if you can't do that, just how to make it freeze on a certain gear and not move at all).My bike gears change constantly and on their own?
    the cables are either bad, or not tight enough. You can try and adjust them on your own, or take it to a bike shop for 60 bucks or so. IF they need to be replaced, I recommend having a pro do it. I can do it, but I hate to. I would rather be riding.



    here is videos on how to adjust front and back derailleurs.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngm6dr-1n

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j1gSwhsVMy bike gears change constantly and on their own?
    your drivetrain needs adjusting.



    Probably you got the bike new and the cables are stretched.



    You can go to the LBS where you bought it - if they sell a new bike, usually a first tune-up is included for free. If not, I would take my business elsewhere, a tune-up does not cost the world.



    If you bought a department store bike because you are cheap, tough luck. Try to get them to do the adjustment and otherwise, tough luck again.

    If you bought a department store bike because you seriously did not have the money, be consoled: Sheldon Brown teaches all about adjusting a drivetrain:

    http://sheldonbrown.com/derailer-adjustm
    http://bicycletutor.com/part/rear-derail

    PLEASE HELP ME!! How do you change the gear shift on a 2007 Chrysler 300?

    Ya I want to change the ''Head'' of the gear shift you know the part you grasp to change gears.. ex: Park, Reverse, Neutral, Drive

    I heard its either by a ''Allen Wrench'' or you twist it off like a top off of a bottle.. Which is it??PLEASE HELP ME!! How do you change the gear shift on a 2007 Chrysler 300?
    You did not give engine size? This instructions are for a v6

    REMOVAL



    WARNING: Before servicing the steering column the airbag system must be disarmed. Failure to do so may result in accidental deployment of the airbag and possible personal injury.







    1. Disconnect the negative (ground) cable from the battery.

    2. Remove the steering column opening cover.

    3. Remove the steering column opening reinforcement (1).

    4. Disconnect the AutoStick wiring connector (1).

    5. Remove the wiring tie strap (2) securing the AutoStick wiring to the column

    6. Unsnap the gear shift lever boot (2) from the cluster bezel (3). Slide the boot up the gear shift lever (1), away from the bezel.

    7. Remove the gear shift lever mounting screw (1).

    8. Slide the gear shift lever (2) out of the column shift mechanism and remove the lever with AutoStick wiring.

    Theres a sound a car makes when it changes gears or revs up it sounds like air being released how to make that?

    Like its of course with sports cars but it sounds as if air is being released i was wonderhow to get that effect ina carTheres a sound a car makes when it changes gears or revs up it sounds like air being released how to make that?
    You're looking for a blow off valve or a bypass valve. The blowoff valve releases charged air on a motor with forced induction. The whole reason behind the blow off valve is to release the pressure in the system to avoid damage to the turbo. When a turbo is spooling and producing boost the throttle plate is open sucking air in and expelling it though the exhaust which spins the turbo. When that plate shuts the turbo is still spinning from the exhaust and the extra pressure (boost) has no where to go. If the extra boost isn't vented (blowoff valve) or recycled (bypass valve) then the air can go back towards the compressor of the turbo and cause damage to the compressor wheel blades.



    Here's my old setup from 2005

    http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r217/



    You can see the big valve right before the throttle body and intake manifold. This is exactly what you're looking for.



    So either convert your car to turbo (it's a lot of work, believe me) or buy a turbocharged car.Theres a sound a car makes when it changes gears or revs up it sounds like air being released how to make that?
    Its a blow off valve on turbocharged cars. Unless your engine has a turbo, you cant get that noise. Install a turbo or buy a turbo car and you can install the valve and get what you want.
    those race cars use an air shift so yes it is air being released. their transmissions are special trans's and the daily driven cars arent likely to spend the bucks for one. by the way I think the sound is awsome too. watching the long beach grand prix the 1st time thought the cars were blowing up when they shifted. i know that the guy who said turbu release was doing his best but the release is only happening on down shifts not up shifts as the driver doesnt let off the throttle.

    I have a 06 mustang GT auto how much will it cost me to get an gear change? and where?

    to be honest I don't fully understand what changing gears mean and how it works... I just read it somewhere that it would improve performanceI have a 06 mustang GT auto how much will it cost me to get an gear change? and where?
    Call a trustful mobile mechanic to come over and do the gears. They will take a couplke hours to do.



    Changing your gears will make a huge difference especially if you tune your vehicle to change the shift pointsI have a 06 mustang GT auto how much will it cost me to get an gear change? and where?
    About a couple grand...





    Go take it to Mexico...
    anywhere from a several hundred to over a grand depending on if you know someone or go to an expensive shop. Find a good performance shop to get a quote. Dealers are expensive. Changing gears means changing the rear axle gears to another ratio. There are 2 gears(ring and Pinion). You can't go too far out without the engine computer needing to be modified for the lower gears. It makes your engine rev up faster and makes the car quicker. If you do not hae limited slip you can ask a shop about that. I would add it if you don't have it. That makes the wheels spin together. Ever see 2 black lines instead of one on burnouts? thats limited slip. That adds to the cost.
    Ah you must be asking about the final drive gear ratio in the Rear End or what is called the 3rd member. I believe you have a 8.8'; Ring Gear and the stock ratio should be 3.55:1 for a manual transmission car. Changing the gear ratio from a 3.55:1 to a 4.10:1 or 4.33:1 or 4.56:1 will make allot of difference off the starting line, but you will sacrifice fuel mileage at cruising speed. I will cost $200 plus $111 for a shim/bearing kit, and labor to remove and install the parts. I would think that the rear end could be done at a dealership for about 4-6 hours labor at $94-100 and hour. I would say about $1000.
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  • Roaring noise when changing gears in car?

    Hi, I'm learning how to drive and almost always whenever I go up a gear the engine makes a roaring noise. It's not the same kind of roar as when you keep the accelerator down. The only way I can stop it happening is to come off the clutch really, really slowly, but this can't be right, can it? Can anyone think what I might be doing wrong?Roaring noise when changing gears in car?
    the fan clutch under the hood that the fan blade is bolted to,it plays part with the cooling of the radiator.

    Vw golf engines very noisey when I change gear?

    I have a 99 sreg 1.4 golf,the clutch has been slipping but now when I change gear or just drive it makeing an auwful noise,I could hear it over my music,does that mean i need a new clutch,how much will that cost ,will it be safe to drive,thanksVw golf engines very noisey when I change gear?
    If it's making a grinding noise, you may have bad synchronizers.



    What gears are the noises in? Like 2nd-3rd....



    What kind of noise is it?Vw golf engines very noisey when I change gear?
    If you know your clutch is slipping,just repair or fix it! You need a new clutch set.



    Try to compare prices from parts warehouse and replace it, unfortunately I dont know how much it cost.Continuous driving may lead to increased fuel consumption and other driveability problems.



    Cheers!
    It's easy: go to a VW dealer, and there you'll find all the details;)

    How can I change gear oil in Jonway Adventure 125CC? Please help?

    I've got a Jonway Adventure 125CC. I want to know how i can change Gear Oil?How can I change gear oil in Jonway Adventure 125CC? Please help?
    Aren't these automatic? I.e. CVT? So they don't have gears as such, so they don't have gear oil - I think. There may be some kind of lubrication system for the pulleys, but I doubt whether that would actually need changing as such. If they're not automatic, the gear oil is the same as the engine oil. Are you sure you don't wanna change the engine oil? Warm the engine up first, so the oil runs more easily. The drain plug will be on the underside of the motor. Put a big enough container under the motor, undo the plug, and drain the oil. REPLACE THE PLUG! Refill the motor with the specified quantity of oil.

    How ofton do you have to change gear lub in transfer case of 4X4's ?

    I just would like to know, thank'sHow ofton do you have to change gear lub in transfer case of 4X4's ?
    depending on how often you use it, but usually every 40,000- 50,000 miles.How ofton do you have to change gear lub in transfer case of 4X4's ?
    Usage dictates the change interval.



    Under normal and not abused conditions, I would think you could take it to 100,000 miles.



    Do any rock climbing, some mud, or other high torque uses? Then I would say 50,000 miles.



    Been running in the deep water and lots of mud and ick? Then I would change it tomorrow.

    How do you adjust the rear derailleur of a bike, so that the bike will change gears?

    I have a used bike, and before I got it, it sat out in the rain, and now the rear deralleur will not shift. I can shift it manually, just by pushing the derailleur back and forth with my bare hand, but when I try to shift with the shifter on the handlebars, the shifter will not move. I already adjusted the extera slack off the cable (there was quite a lot of that), and i also coated the thing with silicone lubricant spray, but it still will not shift.How do you adjust the rear derailleur of a bike, so that the bike will change gears?
    Here is a diagnostic. It is a little long, but if you go through it you should be able to find your problem.



    1) Attempt to shift the bike to high gear... that is the smallest gear in the back. Remember, you must pedal FORWARD as you shift;

    2) If it goes into gear, great. If not, pull on the cable at a bare area. There should be no tension AND no slack. If there is tension on it and pulling it makes it slack, pedal the bike forward and it should drop into high gear.

    3) If it DOESN'T go into high gear there are one of 2 things wrong... either someone messed with the ';H'; adjuster screw on the derailleur or the derailleur is broken/frozen. Back the ';H'; screw out a little and see if it makes any difference. If it does, turn the screw out as you are pedalling until the pulleys on the unit line up with the smallest rear cog.

    4) If it DOES go into gear then your cable or shifter is bad. My guess it is probably the cable. You will need to remove cable AND housing and replace it. Just slathering with lube usually won't do it.



    My guess, based on your explanation, is that the cable or shifter requires REPLACEMENT, and it is most likely the cable.How do you adjust the rear derailleur of a bike, so that the bike will change gears?
    That cable is corroded internally most likely, or the shifter's rusted up.



    One other possibility is that the cable has become disconnected at the shifter end (I wonder where all the extra slack came from?)



    If you disconnect it from the derailleur, does the cable move freely when you change gear?
    Agree with above, replace cables AND housings to trust it.
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  • Please Help! What could it be if my car waits too long to shift gears and I am now starting to smell gas?

    Please help! For a while now when I start my car, it seems like it is running really hard and loud. Also in park, it revs up to between 2 %26amp; 3 rpms. Then while driving it takes it forever to change gears. Like it waits too long and it is just reving up the whole time until it finally changes to the next gear. This morning I started to smell gas and now my engine light is on. Has this happened to anyone or would anyone have any idea as to what might be wrong and how much $ I am looking at. Thanks!Please Help! What could it be if my car waits too long to shift gears and I am now starting to smell gas?
    It could be various things depending on your car. First thing that it might be is the transmission, and that could be anywhere from 850-???Please Help! What could it be if my car waits too long to shift gears and I am now starting to smell gas?
    Your late shifting of gears might be that your transmission is bad, this is not uncommon for automatic transmissions. As far as the car reving high in park that may be because your throttle may be too high, maybe somebody moved it. It's really simple to fix, all you need is a wrench (sizes vary) and you can adjust that. The smell of gas can have different causes, it may just be as simple as getting a new fuel filter because yours might be clogged. About the transmission, does it hesitate when you accelerate?
    could be timing

    might be a sensor

    does the check engine ligt come on?

    if the engine check light comes on, e-mail me and ill send you and explanation on how to check that without going to a shop to have them plug in a computer

    How to change hoover elite 1210 wash machine's gear box?

    i tried to change gear box but after i dismatled most of things but i have no idea how to take the bearing out of hub, can someone have this kind of experience tell me how to do it and what kind of special tool i need to have itHow to change hoover elite 1210 wash machine's gear box?
    I have had really good experience fixing my washers and dryers by going on line to Maytag.com, whirlpool.com and for you, you should see if there is a hoover.com and they will take you step by step how to fix your product. I was surprised and amazed and have kept my dated machines running for years.

    So I don't have this so called sence. How do I know when to change gear by using the speedometer?

    I need someone to tell me exaclty when to switch from the first to second , and the third and fourth and so on

    I need to know the exact speed on the speedometer to switch. And don't tell me to do it when the motor starts to make a loud sound cuz it always is.So I don't have this so called sence. How do I know when to change gear by using the speedometer?
    What is redline on your bike? you can shift at any point when the motor will not bog shake or quit. Honestly if you are asking the question you really need to think of an alternate form of transportation%26gt; just because you can keep a bike up right does not mean you should ride there are so many things that you must be aware of at all times. knowing the sound and feel should be a natural thing If you need to look at the spedometer to shift I would park the bike!So I don't have this so called sence. How do I know when to change gear by using the speedometer?
    My manual told me... I have a Buell Blast and you are suppose to shift at 15mph, 25, 35,45.

    Report Abuse


    you can't tell by the speedometer,

    but rather the tachometer......

    the rpm meter.....
    1st to second = about 4 to 6 mph

    2nd to 3rd = about 25 to 30

    3rd to 4th = about 35 to 40

    etc...
    It's not the speedometer, it's the engine RPM gauge. I can't tell you exacly what level to change gears at because I learned how to drive a stich by feel.
    There is no safe answer to your question. What is the right speed one time isn't going to be right another.



    You will just have to learn to hear the motor and gauge from sound and the feel of the bike when to change gear - sorry this isn't the answer you want.



    Perhaps - not a motorbike but a car? Then you can have an automatic and your problem is gone.
    I should say what really needs to be said here, but I will be nice. There is NO WAY to tell going by the speedometer. I drive a Drag car, and it is so loud, and the helmet keeps me from hearing anything but loud noise. The only answer to this is; buy a Tachometer before you blow the engine and find yourself dead. If you blow the engine and it catches on fire, and you wreck, then what? You can get a tach with a shift light on it, and your problem will be solved. I hope this helps. Good Luck!!!

    Part 2.

    We know its a motorcycle! You aren't listening to what everyone is telling you. GET A TACH! and you won't have the problem anymore. This is the only way you can know when to shift if you can't hear the motor. You can also get a shift light for a motorcycle too. If you try to depend on the speed, you WILL blow the motor up. This is why they invented tachs and shift lights. Ask a question and argue with the answers. Why ask a question?
    You don't say which motorcycle you have, what year or what you're doing. If it's a newer model (say last 10 years or so), it'll have a rev limiter on it. That basically disables some aspect of the engine (spark or fuel I think are the two most common methods) so you can't exceed the redline of the engine and damage it. Even Harleys have them.



    So you can really just hold the gas open until it sputters at you and then shift. Eventually you'll figure out the speeds where it makes sense. The folks who rev to redline are the ones that are racing the bike.



    On my Harley, which doesn't have a tach, you'd shift at about these speeds: 1%26gt;2 is 15, 2%26gt;3 is 30, 3%26gt;4 is 45 and 4%26gt;5 is 55



    On my Hayabusa, which does have a tach, I shift at from 3500 rpm to 4500 rpm fror normal riding. If I were to redline it, I'd be doing about 79mph in first gear before shifting so that doesn't happen often :)



    If you're really concerned about it, locate a tach and have it installed.
    The shift points would vary by engine size and type. We need more information to help you. A 500cc four stroke will have different shift points than a 750cc or a smaller two stroke motor.

    Enter your engine make size and shift points in google and see what links show up. ex. ';750cc Honda Shift Points';
    The absolute best place to look it up is in the owner's manual.

    There should be a table for upshifts, and another for downshifts.

    And that will give a guideline. Start from there, and as you learn to ride, you WILL learn when to shift. You actually tell more by feel and performance than hearing. A tachometer is handy, but not neccessary.
    http://www.ehow.com/how_3234_drive-car-w

    How to decide when to change gears in a 86 mustang?

    I have a 86 mustang with a 5.0 302 carburetor engine in it, Headers, Msd ignition set up, nothing major. Now, my rpm gauge stopped working and i'm going to get a tach with a shift light in it, and i was wondering for racing it on the track what rpm should i shift on so that i can set the tach up right? Thanks in advance...How to decide when to change gears in a 86 mustang?
    There is no predetermined RPM to shift at. Everyone's car is different. Only you can determine your car's sweet spot in the RPM range and get the tach light pill you need from a speed shop that sells performance parts. If you don't intend on making any major changes in the way the car is set up right now and can feel wherever the power drops off in the upper RPMs then you don't need a Monster Tach. You play by ear. Huge tachs in a street and/or daily driven car are also an invitation to thieves to break into your ride once they see it.How to decide when to change gears in a 86 mustang?
    if its a roller cam than you can shift it at 6,000 no problem but if its a flat bottom lifter than I would shift it at 5,500.
    Find out where peak HP is, probably 5000rpm, that's where you shift.

    How to change gears while batting in cricket?Like how to play every ball on its merit & not be impulsive?

    I want to know that when i bat if i start hitting i go into the hitting mode %26amp; even try to hit the good ones out of the park,as i result i lose my wicket,on the other hand if i try to defend i go into a shell n start blocking everything.......How to change gears while batting in cricket?Like how to play every ball on its merit %26amp; not be impulsive?
    Try stuffing your glove with a squash ball and start hitting.. You'll not lose your wicket and you'll be able to score 149 runs.....How to change gears while batting in cricket?Like how to play every ball on its merit %26amp; not be impulsive?
    You can talk about this and any other topic about any other Cricketing nations and about any form of Cricket over here:



    http://cricket123.proboards104.com/index.cgi



    Register there and you are ready to go!
    I always found myself when i was playing in my younger days that if i got into the wicket, i did both.



    If you work hard at your game, and have many shots, you will always score at a good pace.



    It is practice, learning what YOU can hit and what you can't. You see so many people trying to play shots that other people can, but not themselves.



    I think the key is to practice new shots and new ways of playing different balls. If you have scoring shots to every ball, quality shots, and not slogs, you will score very well, WHILE playing every ball on its merits.
    I don't know if this will help as I play bball, but I have to have my mind be nuetral to the pitch and my attack of the pitch until I see the ball. If you anticipate only one thing, you are lost. I would always be ready for the fast ball, but looking for the curveball. So be ready for the most difficult first, and look for the other next. My best guess not knowing the game, but knowing how to hit is have your hands and body ready to hit but look to protect the wicket until you see the ball is the pitch that you want to wallop.
    Play straight and on your front foot, then it's easier to play for longer time and score some runs too..
    yes congrats my friend.

    now you can try any innovations that

    suits to your advantage

    you can use any subtanse tampering

    Head gear and gloves.

    Mcc allowed Gilchrist the Ausie batter to do so.

    Now it is safe to use anything to anhance your batting ability
    joey you arent funny gilchrist was just too good accept it.
    it means you lost your concentration completely so now apply to be a member of indian cricket team.

    they will definitely select you as done in other case.
    I mean, is this Sehwag on the other end? No free advice!
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  • How do you change gear on a bike with a Sturmey Archer gear shift?

    Do you continue to pedal whilst changing gear, or back peddle, or freewheel.How do you change gear on a bike with a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
    Sturmey Archer shifters are used with internally geared hubs, NOT derailleur systems.



    Both their 3 and 5 speed hubs require that you either stop pedalling or ease up on the pedals as you shift. Pedalling full force will cause internal damage eventually.



    The only internally geared hubs that I can think of where you continue to pedal at near full force is the Rohloff hub.How do you change gear on a bike with a Sturmey Archer gear shift?
    Sturmey Archer made one of the popular internal geared 3 speed hubs. The shift these you continue to pedal and shift the gear. In reality you don't really have to be, but I always found it smoother.
    back-pedal..........................wow that brings back memories
    Ahh yes, the old Sturmey Archer !! As seen on the classic UK bicycle, the Raleigh Grifter !! The best way is to just keep pedalling, and change gear. Remember to keep plenty of grease or oil packed in that hub, or it will make a crunching sound that you will never forget ! :)
    Just take the strain off the gears when you do it, you can't actually have to backpedal, just don't be applying force to the pedals as you change. That way there's less resistance on the gears and they will change smoother.
    Keep on pedalling, softly, nice, round, smooth, ... feel how they change without a problem? ....
    The Sturmey Archer 3 speed gear shift. Whilst going downhill you push the lever forward and continue to pedal slowly forward until the gear is locked.
    I remember this from my youth, on my old chopper sprint if you stop pedalling for a sec while changing your gears will work better and last longer.
    You just pull the lever is all. It helps to keep pedalling I guess... but if you don't I believe it changes gears anyway. Besides, if you stop pedalling, you'll stop altogether!



    Back-pedalling is used for two reason - on a freewheel you back-pedal when you are going backwards, for example on a BMX going backwards down a ramp, and for non-freewheel hub, pedalling backwards effectively acts as a back brake, as the back wheel will stop pushing you forward, and lock out.
    no, you keep pedaling or the gears wont shift to low or high gears...

    How do I change gears smoothly on manual?

    Hi I've been driving manual for like a month now, I can drive it without turning off anymore or going up hill from a stand still. What I still cant get down is how to switch smoothly, let me explain. I'm at a stand still and start going forward so I will usually go to about 15mph and then take feet off gas and press on clutch quickly and then switch it to 2nd gear and get off the clutch quickly and press on the gas. okay before I switch to 2nd gear as soon as I let off the gas and press on the clutch I get this jerking motion. As if I were to press on the brakes moderately but I dont. How do I switch to 2nd gear without this jerking motion?How do I change gears smoothly on manual?
    The motion you are getting is from taking your foot off the gas before you push in the clutch. Do it smoothly. You'll get it...How do I change gears smoothly on manual?
    when you switch 1 to 2 try not to let off the clutch quickley and step on the gas quickley put the clutch in switch gears and as you release you're left foot slowly press on the gas pedal use both feet at the some time it will seem stupid at first but if you do it and not think about it and just keep trying it will become natural and you will do it with out even trying
    maybe something is wrong with the car?



    but lower gears in a manual car, youll notice its a lot jerkier, when you let off the gas/give it gas



    maybe push in the clutch right as your letting of the gas?



    not, let off gas, clutch in

    clutch in and let off gas same time?
    Don't release the clutch quickly. You want to do it slowly and evenly at the same time that you are pressing the gas again. And you want to do that slowly.



    This will help you avoid the bunny hopping you are experiencing.
    You'll learn to change gear by both listening to your engine and checking your dials (speed and revs). The key is to find the balance between changing gears, releasing the clutch, and pressing the accelerator - without getting too poetic, it's like a well-timed tango: do it right and it's a thing of beauty.



    You'll learn to love driving manual cars. You will learn to judge which shift to take corners in and get the most out of your engine/car. You'll learn to break on the engine rather than using your brakes to slow down by shifting down allowing you to be in the right gear when coming out of the corner. All this comes with time and practice.



    Don't worry about your engine cutting out because you were in the wrong gear or you couldn't find the balance when trying to drive up a hill from standstill. Though you mention you have mastered that much it will go wrong at time. Just remember - God invented the handbrake for a reason ;-)
    It's not how but when. Timing is what gives the smooth shifting action. In what you described, you are releasing the gas pedal too soon causing the engine to slow the car momentarily before you clutch.

    Go get in a large empty parking lot, or a smooth field if you are in the country. Roll down the window and turn off the radio so you can hear the engine. Begin slowly increasing speed, then depress the clutch and release the gas pedal at the same time. You should hear and feel the engine ever so slightly rev up then slow down when you get your timing correct. The idea is for the clutch to release an instant before the engine starts slowing.

    You want to also get a feel for shifting speed. You do not want to rev the engine too high before shifting. Ideally, your next higher gear speed should cause only a slightly higher than engine idle speed.

    It just takes practice. If you don't like how it is shifting, try something different till you find what works.

    I want to get my hgv liscence...do you change gears 1 -5 as you would a car?? when do the other 4 come into it?

    so how does the gear system work????I want to get my hgv liscence...do you change gears 1 -5 as you would a car?? when do the other 4 come into it?
    You asking a question like that then it shows you have absolutely no idea what it is about. Most big artics and transporters can have up to 24 forward gears done through a split axle system including overdrives.



    They are nothing like driving a car because of the size and weight of them.



    You will have to complete a proper HGV driving school course and they will arrange a test when they think you are ready.I want to get my hgv liscence...do you change gears 1 -5 as you would a car?? when do the other 4 come into it?
    Right, 1st lesson. 'Standard' HGV gear boxes if there is such a thing are usually 4 speed + 'crawler' a super low gear for use in extreme conditions. ( Volvo %26amp; Scania use 3 %26amp; 4 speed ) - with a high %26amp; low transfer box.( Range Change ) giving you 6, 8 gears or more, depending on the truck. Usually you pull away in 2nd 'low', block change into 4th, then into 'neutral' flick a switch to high range - or knock the gear lever across to 'high' then back into 1st (5th) %26amp; up the box as normal to 'top'. Then there are the 'splitter' boxes where each position has a high %26amp; low gear. - These are usually 4, 5 or 6 speed - giving 8,10 or 12 gears. Then the most common on the heavier end are Range / Splitters, - giving up to 18 in all! It sounds confusing, but it comes naturally with practice. The majority of modern gearboxes are full synchromesh ( like a car ) with only crawler needing 'double de-clutching' The way modern trucks are going, manual boxes will be a thing of the past in a few years but you will have to show your competence using a manual gearbox on your test. If that has not put you off going for your licence, be aware that at the moment there are an estimated 15 - 18000 drivers on the job market due to the number of high profile haulage firms going 'bump'
    in a nutshell mate and simply........you have 4 low box gears and four high you use the the low box gears when setting off with a loaded trailer and maybe 4th when you have an empty trailer once you get going you flick a switch and use the top four,mr instructor was as my instructer did talking bollocks and making something so simple and natural once you get used to it so complecated,dont worry mate like life jump in asses act and achieve thats my motto



    they do have splitters and crawlers and overdrives but it aint rocket science.

    How best to stop ';crunching of gears'; on bike?

    When I put my full weight on the pedals, (such as when I start pedalling at a red to green light) the chain always changes gears of its own accord.



    How can I stop it?How best to stop ';crunching of gears'; on bike?
    something might be faulty with the wire

    if you have a bike shop nearby

    send in your bike for a check up

    otherwise

    check your wire, the one that controls gears

    also fiddle around with the screws on your gears (they are at the back of the bike just below the actual gears, they are quiet small)

    it pretty easy to fix your bike if you fiddle around with it for a while

    have some confidence and you'll get it done in no time

    also you can look here

    http://www.bikewebsite.com/



    also check your chain, it might be too long, too short, (Not the right length)How best to stop ';crunching of gears'; on bike?
    I have the same problem. Buy a new bike.
    there should be an adjustment on the derailers......and maybe the chain is too long

    How safe is it to redline a car constantly before changing gears?

    How safe is it to bash your head against a concrete wall by running into the wall at full speed every time you go for a walk?



    The answer is the same.How safe is it to redline a car constantly before changing gears?
    Well, the redline is there for a reason, but it still depends on the car.



    Cars with roller-bearings instead of fixed bearings, like many Porsches, are less susceptible to damage at high revs, and indeed those cars suffer more from lugging than over-reving as the roller bearings are very good at reducing high speed internal friction but tend to torque in place a bit at very low rpms as there is less contact surface to hold them true.



    Many people with drag racers will install roller bearing fitted engines precisely to enable them to go past the manufacturers suggested redline.



    Also, Mazda's wankel (rotory) engines are exceptionally well-suited to high revs, well past the red-line with only infrequent failure.



    If you are inclined to drive like that, keep your oil fresh, and your car in tune as missing at high revs can put enormous strain on the engine. Also, always allow the engine to warm up before you do this sort of thing, as warm oil has a much better flow capacity to lubricate than it does cold.How safe is it to redline a car constantly before changing gears?
    Redline means ';danger,- big money going out the window';!!Engine rpms relate to centrifical force. the faster they go the more stress on parts, at some point you get the ';basic handgernade'; result! Consider fact that somewhere near top end,- parts internally are going almost the speed of sound! perhaps the exploding motor IS the ';sonic boom';!



    Anyway every time you do this it shortens the life of car engine some, -- and like a cat it only has ';so many lives'; before it rolls over dead!



    My reccomendation is don/t do it!
    No. You should not redline it every time before you change gears, unless you're racing and can afford to rebuild your engine every so often.



    As your engine goes faster, it puts out more power (and burns more gas). The redline is where it puts out it's maximum power.



    Do you see everyone else doing this?
    well that depends on how good of a driver you are now doesn't it. and i would probably start planning a rebuild and use performance parts with that kind of driving style they would hold up better than stock parts. also find your local dragstrip and try it out on test and tune night if they have one. it is safer for everyone else around you and you can't get a speeding ticket on a dragstrip.
    It isn't, but it's all relative to how much money you have to buy a new engine. Redlines are the maximum engine speed you should go to.



    I have used the 75% rule on all but a few occasions, especially when I was young and stupid.



    Redline is 6000, take it 4,500. Your engine will last much longer that way.



    But hey, it's you car.
    the more you redline your car the more you risk on blowing your engine or transmission up . if i were you ... i would keep it about 500 rpm from red lining .like on my truck ... it redlines at about 8000 rpm ... i like screwing around and when im out and about tryin to see what it can do ... i keep it on about 7250 -7500 before i switch .but thats just me
    It's as safe as leaving your debit card on an ATM with the code number on the back. It's not a matter of if , it's a matter of when you blow it up! That's why they didn't use SKY BLUE line. Back up or save up, todays engines are costly. If it's under warranty, they can usually tell it was over revved.
    Say, B4shock, your have your answer already.



    Your ID with your pic. struck me as saying ';Me be for a shock!'; Well ol' pal, keep on doing your 'redlining' fun, and your transmission %26amp; engine will oblige you with a *BAD* repair shock.
    Not safe at all. Not to mention, Thats NOT how to get the most tourqe.



    thats the worst way.



    If you keep it up, you'll be rebuilding your engine in a couple months.
    Um... I didn't think it was ever good. But I'm just a girl so what the hell would I know
    Three Words : Engine Rebuild Eminent.
    Fun till you have to pay for it fun%26gt;
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  • How do u know if your car has problems changing gears?

    It seems like it is hard to push down the gas petal and it accelarates slow and when i floor it it doesnt seem like it wants to changes gear. Can any one help me with the problem?How do u know if your car has problems changing gears?
    I had the same problem last year, I needed to change my transmission fluid (automatic)- it ran dry, started acting funny , wouldn't want to shift properly and started to make this loud humming/ whirring noise. But it was too late, the damage was done, i had to get a new transmission. Now she purrs fine and works better than ever. I always make sure my fluids are topped up now.How do u know if your car has problems changing gears?
    Sounds like your transmission should be checked out.
    CHeck your transmission fluid. If the level is fine and you are still experianceing a problem, I suggest taking it into a local shop. Transmission problems only et worse and more expensive the longer you wait.

    When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?

    I just bought a manual transmission car and I got 1 hour lesson from a driving school just to understand the basics. The instructor said when in first gear, I have to release the clutch slowly and apply gas at the same time to keep the rev constant. However when changing from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd, he said to release the clutch slowly all the way and THEN apply the gas...is this true? After doing some reading, it seems whenever you need to shift, you should release the clutch and apply some gas at the same time.



    Also, how do you rev match? How do you know what the rev should be compared to how fast you're going?When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
    To Take off you need to apply a little gas simultaneously as you slowly relase the clutch pedal



    on shifting gears once you're moving this isn't so critical ... the vehicle won't stall or stop... but if not done right or exactly smooth you may get a little lurch or buck out of it until you get the timing and fell of it down...



    when it comes time to shift from first to second and so forth you will be cruising along at a semi steady speed then you push ths clutch pedal down move to a new gear and as you begin to release you will add just a very slight pressure more to the gas...



    this will sort of feather (smooth out) the transidion from one gear to the next for acceleration...



    with practice you will get a feel for this...take a ride with an an experiended manual transmission driver



    and have them drive your vehicle while mostly all you do is watch their coordination of clutch shift lever and the gas... it isn't that complex of a dance to learn...



    pay attention to how they accelration shift and decekeration shift and come to a stop...



    then go to a hill and wath how the brake, clutch and the gas are simultaneously coordinated for starting out on a hill without rolling backward..



    My first car was a 1969 Plymouth Roadrunner at 15 but I had learned to drive a manual transmission by 13



    hang in there and go practice you'll get it



    WaltWhen changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
    NO!! your vehicale will stall, or you will pop the clutch
    It's better to release the clutch almost completely before hitting the gas again so you won't burn the clutch out. Your best bet would be to shift when the r's are between 2 and 25.
    Both of them are about right. They go pretty much in sync. When shifting gears try to be precise and avoid leaving your foot on the clutch too long. It will wear it out and it can be pretty expensive.



    And depends if you're driving fast or slow but try to keep the revs at about 2,000-4,000 and you should always be around the powerband and not waste gas. Of course, it depends on the car. In my car you only start getting power after 6,500rpm. :D
    It is true ... you have to always maintain some gas because if you don't you are bound to stall the engine , you can play with the clutch allot more frequent , what is critical is maintaining the rpm of the engine , or maintaining the engine alive . Don';t worry about matching your rpm with your car speed , for one is common sense not to over rev your engine unnecessarily , idle engine usually is 600 rpm .and a comfortable top rpm 3500rpm before shifting or some what less you have to practice and feel comfortable .
    its hard to explain but easy to show. Well its all about the speed of letting go the clutch while pressing the gas, basically in first gear you let go of clutch very smoothly and slow but when you shift from 4th to 5th you can drop the clutch and press gas, so the higher gear to shift in, less clutch you have to burn.
    Yes but ';sloooooly' release the clutch while feeding a constant 1,000 rpm's until the the clutch is totally released. Push the gas petal till the tachometer reads 2,000 rpm. Do the same thing till you shift to high gear.



    Your driver teacher must own a clutch company because you'll use it up by constantly slipping the clutch.
    rev match? you will get the feel for it over time. but for now your ears will tell you when things dont match. he's right about starting out. you will get the feel for that also. it doesnt take long. soon you will be able to take off from a stop sign ,at the top of a steep hill. but try to avoid steep streets for awhile.

    when going ';up'; through the gears? you only need depressing the clutch just enough to allow the trans to ';slip'; into the next gear.better to be off the gas completely for that moment of change from one gear to the next.most clutchs become fully ';disengaged'; long before the pedal hits the floor.

    rev match I think what your asking . would be more related to down shifting. lets say your going 60 mph in 5th if you try to downshift to 2nd your rear tires will lock up because the engine should be at idle because your foot is off the gas.try to avoid making that mistake.but it happens easier than you might think. when down shifting you want to bring the engine back to near the rpm it was before you '; engage'; the clutch after making shift to next lower gear.

    you will also learn quickly to depress the clutch all the way right before coming to a stop.or the car will stall everytime

    gas is way expensive these days. you will sound cool.but no need to add gas during up shift. complicated as to why. but it has to do with ratios of gears, power to weight ratio of vehical and inertia.or speed of car in motion.



    all a clutch does is separate the engine from the trans

    just long enough to ';slip'; into the next gear.

    ';slipping'; is what makes it all work like it should.

    when your clutch starts to slip without you wanting it to?

    its time to replace the old clutch with new. the componets that make a clutch work are very much like brake pads or shoes.so the easier you are on it. the longer it will last.

    try to avoid congested freeways untill you have driven it for awhile.stop and go traffic hard on a clutch for inexperienced manule trans drivers.but it can be done without harming anything .once you have the hang of it.

    you can where out a clutch in a few hours by resting your foot on it while driving. the only times you should ever touch it? starting and stopping/ up and down normal shifting.

    driving with a clutch is the fun way to do it. once you have done it for awhile. you wont even have to think about it.

    good luck drive carefully and have fun ...........E

    When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?

    Is it neccesary to squeeze down all the way or just in the friction zone.When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
    bikes are fitted with a sequential constant mesh gearbox,



    you need the clutch to take off from a stand still..



    once the bike is moving you can change gear without damaging the gearbox.



    to do this.. accelerate in first gear.. apply a small amount of pressure to the gear lever.. roll off the accelerator for a split second %26amp; the bike will change gear.. allowing you to reapply the accelerator..



    I use the clutch most of the time.. but only enough to change gear.. you dont have to pull it in all the way..



    going down the gears is a bit trickier as you have to accelerate for the bike to change down without the clutch..



    blipping the throtle as you change down helps.. as this increases the engine revs to match the speed of the bike..



    slipper clutches are fitted to large performance machines..



    they allow you to change from say sixth gear to first gear by pulling in the clutch.. %26amp; when you release the clutch the back end is stopped from locking up by the slip effect



    hope this helps... but if you dont beleive me .. just go to the local bike shop(preferably one that sponsers racers) %26amp; chat to the mechanic.. most are willing to chat %26amp; give information to new riders...When changing gears on a motorcycle how far do you squeeze the clutch?
    Actually it depends on your momentum. It's fairly common for sport bike riders to shift without the clutch while at speed. It's not typically recommended as this practice has the tendency to cause additional wear on the transmission.



    I'd say from stop you'll want to engage the clutch as far as you can. While moving it becomes less important other than how much speed you loose in the process (if that matters at all)
    If you trying to speed shift just squeeze it in to where it will just come out of the friction zone. you can adjust your clutch so this happen sooner on the pull of the clutch or at the top of the pull. this can be hard on the bike. for normal riding just pull it all the way in cuts down on ware.
    Squeeze just enough as you feel the pressure of pulling to disengage the clutch and then shift gears.



    tip: Do it altogether in a quick smooth motion. Its not necessary to squezze tight.
    meke sure to have some play on the clutch if not u burn the clutch then ur suppose to go all the way down but new bikes have slippery clutch which mean only nedd to use the cluch to take off after 4 or 5 k rpm not need of clutch
    Just enough to break the torque Not really all the way

    How or when can i shift gears using a 4-stroke motorcycle like a honda wave 100R?

    i dont have formal schooling on how to drive a motorcycle. i'm quite confused. when i first drove a motorcycle, i just assumed that changing gears is just going downwards all the way. i need to know the correct way on changing gears. pls answer my question.. tnx!How or when can i shift gears using a 4-stroke motorcycle like a honda wave 100R?
    common shift pattern

    5

    4

    3

    2

    N

    1



    sometimes 1 %26amp; N are switched

    Approximately how much would it cost (拢) to fix broken bicycle gears?

    The bit at the top by the handlebars, where you turn it to change gears, is broken on one side so I have to change them manually all the time. the other side is working fine. Does anyone have any idea of approx how much it would cost to get fixed? Thank you.Approximately how much would it cost (拢) to fix broken bicycle gears?
    Assuming it's a recent model bike then a replacement changer will be about 拢10 to 拢15. A bike shop will charge about 拢25 hour labour, although the job would only take them 10 minutes. Smile sweetly when you take your bike into your local shop and they'll want to keep you as a future customer :-)



    It's far more cost effective in the long run to learn how to fix a bike yourself and build up a set of tools - the knowledge and tools will last you a lifetime. I started with Richard Ballantine's Bicycle Book - out of print, but still valuable. Park do a good workshop guide too. Unfortunately, books and tools will cost you much more than the labour, in this instance. You only save in the long term.Approximately how much would it cost (拢) to fix broken bicycle gears?
    It will depend on the quality of the shifter. You can look on Amazon and get a new set for replacement.



    http://www.amazon.com/s?ie=UTF8%26amp;rs=34047



    http://bicycletutor.com/part/shifter/
    Halfords would do you for around 拢25.
    Go to your LBS and find out.
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  • How to change gear ratios for hill climbing?

    I have a Compact ISIS Crankset 50/36 with a Ultegra 6600 10spd 11-23 cassette and I need slightly lower gearing for better hill climbing on my roadbike. What is the recommended way?How to change gear ratios for hill climbing?
    Buy a 11-25 or 11-27 cassette. You can go with a 12 small cog if you like as well.How to change gear ratios for hill climbing?
    Shimano makes a 12-27 cassette that should work. With a road bike, you can't go crazy big on the cassette (29 tooth gear) since the rear derailleur won't be able to take able to take up the difference in chain. Also, going with a larger cassette might cause you to have to get a chain that is a couple of links longer.



    You need to remove the quick release from the rear wheel. There is a special tool to remove the cassette from a Shimano equipped wheel. You can get a Spin doctor or Park one, here is an example (not endorsing this specific one but I am sure it is fine.)

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/prof

    You also need a chain whip.

    http://www.performancebike.com/shop/prof



    You need to remove the lockring turning it counter clockwise and the chain whip to hold the cassette. Pull the gears straight off and slide the new cassette on. Be careful to keep all the spacers and gears in the same order that they came. The hub is keyed so you can only orient the cassette in one direction. You need to use a bit of force to tighten the lockring on the new cassette pulling in teh opposite direction with the chain whip.
    To add to MR's post if 11-25 or 11-27 is not enough, Campy has a 13-29.



    EDIT: rear cassette size limit is due to the derailleurs cage length, if you have a long cage this is not an issue and adding a few extra links is no big deal.
    we did a very hilly tour this weekend. i run a 39t inner ring and a 27t in the rear, but there was one hill i couldnt make. i suspect that if you change to a 27t rear cluster you should have pleanty, and they make a 34t inner ring for compact cranks.

    When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?

    I just bought a manual transmission car and I got 1 hour lesson from a driving school just to understand the basics. The instructor said when in first gear, I have to release the clutch slowly and apply gas at the same time to keep the rev constant. However when changing from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd, he said to release the clutch slowly all the way and THEN apply the gas...is this true? After doing some reading, it seems whenever you need to shift, you should release the clutch and apply some gas at the same time.



    Also, how do you rev match? How do you know what the rev should be compared to how fast you're going?When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
    the clutch will 'take up' before it is fully out. this can be adjusted and should start connecting not far from the floor.



    rev matching is very good and is what is achieved by 'double clutching' as race drivers do. this will reduce the drag on your gearbox when you change gears. this takes a bit of practice but most people don't do this. drive a car without synchro gears and you have to 'double clutch' but they probably don't exist today LOL



    as you feel the clutch engage you should start applying pressure to the accelerator. driving is improved by being aware of the sound of your motor and knowing when to change gears by the sound .. you will also be able to judge the amount of rev to get 'rev matching' right.



    don't just Drive a car - understand what you are doing (it is a leathal weapon) and what is happening with each action you take. I believe this will improve anyones driving.When changing gears on a manual, do you release the clutch all the way before applying the gas?
    You and your car need to get to ';know'; each other....on the next sunny day, take her out on less traveled roads ...';feel'; the clutch....feel the gas.....and find a happy medium! When u r in higher gear u DO NOT need to add gas because of the rpm's sorta like free falling...you'll see.

    O! and once you have a stick you will never go back to automatic .
    I usually let off the gas, shift then press the gas just as the trans grabs, you will feel it grab. Some people give it gas and release at the same time, I dont do it that way. Just drive and you will get your own pattern down. I never heard of rev match.... it dosent matter what the rev is as you are driving, just dont red line the engine, then you are past when you should have shifted.
    Both at the same time. Practice by revving the engine -- JUST A LITTLE -- and then very slowly going up and down on the clutch with the other foot. The clutch is not ';All or Nothing'; it matters how hard you've got it pressed. if you let up on it without your foot on the gas, at least a little, you'll stall. you should be going up with the clutch only when you're going down with the gas slowly. When you've got the clutch pressed all the way down and then let it up completely and suddenly that's called popping the clutch and you only want to do that in extreme situations.
    Not true. If you do that the car will tend ot jerk you forward in the seat. You need to give it some gas while you release the clutch. Once you get some practice, you will know how much gas to give it. Don't worry, it's like riding a bicycle, once you learn then you'll never forget. It won't take too long either. If you can, find an empty shopping mall parking lot or some other deserted site, then go over there and practice going from 1st to 2nd and 3rd until you get a feel for it.
    You have to give it enough gas as your releasing the clutch to keep it from stalling. You should be able to feel the clutch grabbing and that will tell you when to start giving it gas. There is no certain amount to give cause it is a give and take. You don't want to let out to much clutch and buck either. In time you will get the feel and your ride will get much smoother. I don't think you should release the clutch all the way and then give it gas cause you will stall and have a rough ride. As you release the clutch slowly and feel it grab, you give it little gas and kind of equalize it. Hope this helps a little.
    No, you release the clutch WHILE applying the gas.

    Why does my toyota celica feel rough when i change gears?

    i have a 2005 Toyota Celica GT hasn't given me any problems and i always do it's oil changes when needed but lately i've been noticing that when i move the handle to put it in DRIVE it feels hard like i have to use more force to move it and same goes for all the other gears. I tried moving it all the way down to LOW then back up and still it feels rough. Why could it be? how can it be fixed and is it bad any tips or suggestions are appreciatedWhy does my toyota celica feel rough when i change gears?
    I'm pretty sure this can help!



    http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_c



    Since it's all your shifts, go to page 2 of the link I posted for you.

    I have a Toyota Celica 1995. Mine is turning into a piece of crap.Why does my toyota celica feel rough when i change gears?
    shifter probably full of dirt and goo. is it a console shifter? what got spilled down it?
    the shift cable may need to be lubed or you spilled coffee with sugar in it or soda down in the console clean out the console

    When driving a car, how do you know when to change gear?

    Is probably seems obvious to many people but I kind of have a problem with that.

    I tend to change depending on my speed...When driving a car, how do you know when to change gear?
    its a mixture of many different things. But if you are a beginner the general rule of thumb to change gears for normal city traffic driving is around 2000-2500 rpms on your tach gauge. When you are merging in traffic or need alot of power for passing, then take the car higher in the rpms as long as you don't redline. The higher the rpms the more power your car will have. So if you don't need the power in the car then you always shift early in the rpms gauge. If the car feels like there is absolutely no power at all when you shift (the car bogs) then you are shifting too early. The more you practise the more you will know to adjust your rpms to shift. Then eventually you can just tell when to shift from the sound of the engine.When driving a car, how do you know when to change gear?
    Speed, and engine sound
    I do it between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM. This really helped me when I had the same question.



    Now I am better at it and I'll wind it up to 4,000 or so when I need the power: this is rare though.
    For a start, the sound of your engine should tell you. It'll whine or growl when you're going too slow!



    Thinking of MPH, 1st gear (under 10mph) for pulling away and when you're as good as not moving, when you're above 10mph for 2nd gear, 20mph go into 3rd gear, you get the idea, and anything above 40mph for fifth gear.



    If you're going up or down hills I suppose that depends on your car. Some cars can go up hills in 3rd, some can't even manage 2nd. If you're going downhill you could go into 3rd or above.



    Depends on your car really, but these were the guidelines I was taught. :)
    Depends on what stile you drive, but it's all based on rpm, not on speed. Of course people usually dont's watch their rmp meter, they just instictively change speeds based on things like the sound of the engine or the feel of the gas pedal.They don't even think about it. You'll learn after a while.



    If you drive for performance, for the best acceleration, you wanna change speeds higher - close to the ';red line';, because with higer rmp you get more power out of that engine and into transmision. So don't be scared to get your engine screaming once in a while. It's designed to work just fine up to the red line for brief periods of time. But don't do it too often, because first you use a lot of gas with this style, and second you're overheating the engine and make it wear out prematurely.



    For a economical style of driving, try to keep you rmp somewhere between 2k and 3k. That's the most fuel efficient range for a normal 4 cilinder engine. That means when your rmp approaches 3k, shift up. When it drops below 1.5k, shift down.



    The real art for changing gears manually is to do it quick and in the same time to do it smoothly. Don't loose precious engine power while holding the clutch too long, but in the same time don't stress the gearbox by releasing the clutch too quickly.
    Hello,



    1. Learn about you engine. Try to get a specification of your engine (eg. peak torque and at which RPM is it). When you have a tachometer, just make sure that when you do a certain speed, you shift to the gear, which provides you the RPM range to match the band (say, 500 RPM) near the peak torque point. In this band, the engine needs the least effort to propel the car and around this RPM you have the best mileage.



    2. You don't have a tacho: from the gear ratios of the gearboy of your car, and the final gear ratios of you differential and the geometry of your wheels, you can calculate, at which engine speed and gear, how fast your gar goes (approx.). This will give you an 'ideal speed' for each gear you have and you could try to maintain these speeds. When you have an RPM range, that will give a speed range for the gears.



    Something like this:



    http://pw1.netcom.com/~sgalaba/mph.htm



    3. When go uphill, shift back to compensate increased engine load.



    4. Expect two things when shifting (with constant speed):

    - RPM will decrease when you shift upwards (watch out, don't shift up in higher gears when the RPM was so small that after the shift you go near below idle RPM, or you may stall)

    - RPM will increase when when shifting downwards (don't shift back, when you have already high RPMs in the current gear, or the engine overrevs and the wheels may spin, causing handling problems)



    5. You can brake by shifting down, but keep point 4 in mind.



    6. When shifting up, try to rev up the previous gear so that after the change, the RPM falls near to the peak torque band.



    If you have the opportunity to see at which RPM how your engine sounds, you can shift according to your ears.



    Reards
    it depends on which car you are driving.Usually I change gear when I feel that car have enough power to pull in next one.
    the motor r.p.m,s tell you when to shift

    Hi im a woman and my son want to know how u change gears on a motorbike?

    my son has a 125 and said that he cant change his gears helpHi im a woman and my son want to know how u change gears on a motorbike?
    Not quite sure if you mean he can't change gear because of a mechanical problem or a lack of skill ( like he doesn't know how to ride)



    If he does not know how to change gear, you should really enrole him in a basic riding class without delay.



    If it is mechanical, by virtue of the fact that you had to ask the question, I would venture to suggest that you won't have the required skills to carry out the solution . (No offence intended)



    Either get one of his more knowledgeable biker friends have a look or, more expensive maybe, get a bike mechanic to sort it.



    Good luckHi im a woman and my son want to know how u change gears on a motorbike?
    Disengage clutch by squeezing lever on left side of handlebar. Move gear shifter with left foot, gears are probably 1 down 4 up. It is easier said than done if you have no idea what I'm talking about. Of course once you crank the bike if you want to move you need to give it a little gas when you slowly release the clutch lever. Please don't rev it up and pop the clutch. However if the bike will not operate properly you will need to seek out a local mechanic.
  • Why my cat is bleeding inside her ears
  • my computer won't turn on
  • How do you force an automatic transmssion car to change gear?

    More speciffically, how do you force a car to upshift the gear? I don't like it when my car revs to 3000 rpm before it changes gear. It wastes fuel because I know I can drive it at the higher gear at a lower rpm rather than trashing the engine with a lower gear at high rpm.How do you force an automatic transmssion car to change gear?
    To be honest i think your car has a torque converter problem,,may be just be a sensor but 3000rpm is too high unless you are putting your foot through the floor.I have 3 auto cars all totaly different to each other,Nissan pathfinder 4litre petrol,bmw 728i,and 37 year old triumph stag 3.0v8,All of these change up before 3000rpm unless your foot is hard down.

    My vw bus (splitscreen) wont change gears to 3rd and 4th?

    does anyone have any advice on how to fix the gear shifter, i know its not my gear box because i had that recently replaced, so it must be somewhere in the shifter system and i dont know where to look or if i can fix it?My vw bus (splitscreen) wont change gears to 3rd and 4th?
    you're gonna have to get the manual on-line or something and start looking at all the suspension points for your trans linkage. If it's a VW bus, the transaxle sits in the back, so you've got this long section of metal that runs back underneath the vehicle from the driver's position to the transmission linkage. I would get the thing up on jackstands(safely), disconnect the shifter linkage from the front, and see if the shifter mechanism on the trans itself feels like it's moving normally through the gear positions. If that part's ok, then start diagnosing in the general direction of the front bumper. If it's not OK, then it's time to have the trans out for a rebuild....something's worn out, and forcing it won't help and may just put metal into your gear teeth...which will ultimately leave you stranded somewhere wishing you'd been thorough...My vw bus (splitscreen) wont change gears to 3rd and 4th?
    First Gears





    Since I like to run a ';car'; transmission, for the ground speed, I went through a LOT of first gears. (and, of course, spider gears!) With every change, VW made some improvements in transmissions. Even the cases were improved. The ';one sided'; (only has one unboltable differential cover) IRS case is stronger then the ';two-sided'; one. ANd even the side covers were changed. The first ones had no ring around the ';webs';, then VW went to a 1-ringed side cover, and the later models '76-up, went to a 2-ringed side cover. This late model one is as good or better than any after market one that you can buy. When I started riding, I first used the old 6 volt '66-down swingaxle transmission and converted it over to the IRS. This is done by removing the whole differential section but saving the ring gear and putting it on the IRS carrier. Since the IRS is 8 bolt, and the SA is 6, I could only use 2 bolts (or buy a superdiff which has both patterns). So I put a couple of tack welds on too. Back when I done this, I only had a small motor and the 4:37 was a great ratio (still is). What I didn't know was the first gear in these trannys is real narrow, and they didn't last very long. But if you are into trail riding and not hill climbing and don't have a lead foot and a 2300# pressure plate, then this will work for a while. Next I went to the IRS '72-down (10 tooth mainshaft 1st) first gear.. Much better. Then I went to the '73-up IRS first gear (9 tooth mainshaft 1st). Even better. After three years with this setup(plus a superdiff), I finally broke 1st gear. Last, I took first gear out of a ';091'; 6 rib bus tranny (yes, it will mate to the 73-up, 9 tooth, type 1 mainshaft, as long as you use the ';091'; 6-rib operating sleeve and synchronizer). This has not failed since I done this (around Jan '98). Seems like the next weakest link is the output splines. There are after market ones available, and I have not tried them as of yet. If you have a light weight buggy, then, in my opinion, a ';car'; tranny is the best way to go. I am even running a 3:88 r%26amp;p. If you have a heavy buggy then you need a 6-rib. If you don't climb long and steep hills, and want something to just ride around in, then the 3 or 5 rib will work. It all depends on what you want to do, or what you want the transmission to do.


    You cannot gain in one place without losing somewhere else.








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    Third/Fourth Gears





    If you have had many VW trannies apart, you might have noticed that some have a fine tooth and some have the coarse tooth design. VW made the fine tooth ones so that there would not be as much gear noise, however they are weaker than the coarse tooth ones. I could never really hear any gear noise from the coarse tooth ones anyway, and in a rail buggy, there is no way I could. There are 4 different factory ratios for 4th gear, .82, .85, .88, and .93. As far as I know there is only one factory 3rd. ratio (1.26). There are 2 different types or operating sleeves for 3rd and 4th gear also. If you are changing this, be sure to use the one for the type of 3rd/4th you are using. The difference is the inner teeth are recessed in the older operating sleeve and they come out to the edge in the newer ones. If you put the wrong sleeve in, it will jump out of gear. Just look at the one you are replacing and use the same kind.


    Needle bearings


    As with everything else vw changed, they also changed the needle bearings. The ones out of the old swingaxles are the best. They have a steel cage and more needles per cage than the later models and the needles are longer. VW switched bearings so often that its hard to tell which ones have what without taking the trans apart, but all of the old swingaxles have steel caged bearings (they are even 2 types in these) and are recommended. Some busses have steel, some do not. Hopefully I will get a picture to show you. You may have heard of ';hand-packing'; 1/2 gears with needle bearings. This is a good idea BUT it takes 3 caged bearings (of the correct length) to get enough to do one gear. Weddle Engineering in CA (562) 598-2731 offers a complete set. If you are into all out racing- big engine, and high hp and big pressure plate, then you will need to do everything you can to make the trans stronger including hand packing. (also see setting up first gear axial play). If not, then the old steel caged bearings will work fine.








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    Reverse Gears





    REVERSE GEAR PIC Well, how many times have you seen these torn out? Does YOURS kick out? Well, the first thing to check is to make sure that when your shifter is in reverse, make sure that it is still trying to pull on the rubber bushing in the coupler and not bottoming out in the shifter box. If it is not bottoming in the shifter box, then that is all you can do from a shifter point of view. Have you seen one of these reverse gears? Man, they are small! Well, there is not a lot you can do to make reverse stronger, Inside of the transmission, I always adjust them so that they will engage deeper than what the factory does. It seems like they are never set deep enough from the factory (about half way in). Care must be taken so that you do not adjust it in too far, because if you do, it will rub when you are in second gear, and if really too far in, it will be in second and reverse at the same time. On all 72-down trannies reverse can be ';turned around'; if it is worn a ';little'; on one side. Personally I always change it if it is worn (or just adjust it deeper), but if you don't have one and just want to ';get it back together';, then you can turn it around or adjust it in deeper. One important note: If you are replacing then look at your old gear first!! If it has 1 or 2 or no little lines around it, then that is the gear that HAS to be put back in!! If the old reverse is too worn to tell, look at the big reverse gear and see if it has lines around it. Keep the same number of lines matched! This is true of ALL Gears if you were replacing those. Also Be careful when switching cases because you Cannot use the older 72-down reverse gear holder setup(brass) in a 73-up case. The brass holder will bottom before reverse will engage. BUT you CAN use the late model reverse setup in the older cases. An old tranny case makes a good jig to set up reverse in. Cut the side out of it so you can get to it. Adjust it so that it goes just a little deeper than ';even'; with the big gear. Never spin ANY VW tranny in reverse!! Also, always hold pressure on the shifter when you use reverse to help keep it in while backing up.








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    Ring %26amp; Pinions / Gear Ratios





    Which is the best R%26amp;P ratio? Which is the strongest?Good questions. The lower the number, the stronger the gear is. So, a type 1 trans with a 3.88 R%26amp;P is stronger than a 4.12, and a 4.12 is stronger than a 4.37. Same goes for the type 2 trannies. The 5.38 is very weak compared to the 4.86 and 4.56. What about aftermarket ones? Another good question. Some are great , but most are not. I will not get into specific brands, but you get what you pay for, so if you find a ';cheap'; set of any kind of gears, then that is what you will get. A friend of mine recently purchased a 3.44 R%26amp;P set for me to install in a swingaxle tranny for the street. The quality looks excellent, and I will keep you informed after he has run it awhile. These were recently advertised in Dune buggies/Hot VW's magazine. However, the factory did a excellent job so if at all possible that you can use one of the factory ratios, then use them. Setting up the R%26amp;P by the factory book (The Bentley Factory Service Manual, which is a great book by the way), can be a real headache. For the most part, as long as you keep the original shims off of the pinion bearing that you are going to use, then the pinion depth will be REAL close and you should have no trouble. If you want to check it, then either buy the book , a lot of tools, or hire someone who has a LOT of experience. Again, it all depends on what you want your tranny to do and how much you want to spend. R%26amp;P selection depends on MANY factors..How tall are your tires? What size is your engine? Cam? What are the other gear ratios?(1st, 2nd, etc..). What do you want to do? (General riding, hill climbing, racing...etc). Without knowing all of these things, then proper gear selection is hard to determine. If you want to e-mail me with all of these numbers, then I will suggest one for you. General all around riding, the 4.86 or better yet, the 091 (4.56) bus tranny) is a good choice.The 091 is VERY tough and geared good for moderate hill climbing and all around riding. If you never climb any tough hills and you just want to ride around and take it easy, then the 5.38 will do fine. I personally have a light buggy,(1100lb) with a type 1 irs tranny. 3.88 R%26amp;P and a 3.78 first gear, with a 2276cc engine, Engle w-125 cam, and 31-33 inch tall tires. I mostly trail ride and hill climb. The tall ratio works great for long steep hills. The stroker crank helps out the bottom end torque, too, but if my buggy were heavier, then the gearing would be too high. It all depends on what you want to do...


    What about the 4-bolt housings versus the one big nut'; ones?


    I have often wondered why VW changed this. In about late 1970 they went to the ';one big nut'; that holds the pinion bearing in the case. This is one thing that VW changed that I don't believe for the better. It does work, but those big nuts are known to get loose and I have took a lot of trannys apart with them loose, even with the nut peened. The 4-bolt style holds the bearing in better and does not allow it to ';work'; in the case. All of the after market ';rhino'; cases I have seen have the 4-bolt configuration. The ';rhino'; case is great by the way IF you are again into racing and/or abuse. I really don't have a problem with the later style pinion nut just make sure when you are tightening it, you MUST drive the mainshaft all the way into the case from the front side while you are tightening this big nut. Take a punch and a hammer and make sure the shaft bottoms in the bore. after you tighten the nut, hit the shaft again and then check the nut again. An impact wrench is best to tighten this with. Also make sure you peen the nut into the recess in the bearing.more later..








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    LAZY man's way to adjust 1st/2nd gear





    This may sound strange, but one easy way to adjust 1st/2nd gear (if you don't have an old case cut out or the proper tools) is to take a 1 1/4 (or similar) size hole saw and drill a hole in the side of the case. This is best done with the trans apart, but will work with it together, especially if you are in a hurry or an emergency. What little aluminum that falls inside should not hurt anything, but it would be a good idea to change the oil in a few days after doing this. The location is near the oil filler hole, above it and to the left on the Type 1, and lower right on the type 2's. You then use a rubber freeze or expansion plug to fill the hole when you are done adjusting. I will take a pic for this so you will know the correct location. Drilling this hole is a great help if you already have the trans in the bug and set up 1/2 wrong. Check back and I will put up a pic. Put the trans in first gear and see if the operating sleeve is touching first gear. If not, adjust it so that it is. Now put it in second, again it should touch. Don't shift too hard so that you override the detent balls that hold the shifter in place, just let it ';click'; into position. Overriding is a good way to tell if it is out of adjustment though. When adjusted properly, you should not be able or go past the detent in either direction.








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    Hydraulic Clutch Issue


    This is something that I have seen a lot and have even had happen to me. Ever go ';down the road'; and notice your clutch is slipping in 3rd or 4th? Most of the time it is not the clutches' fault. It is those hydraulic slave cylinders. What happens is EVERY time you push the clutch in, the slave rod tries to bind in the cylinder. There is no way that the rod can follow the bore correctly as the rod goes through its arc. What happens is fluid bypasses and gets on the opposite side causing the clutch not to release fully, or very slowly. I have even seen people drill a hole in the backside of the housing to relieve the fluid/pressure. As Gene Berg would say ';why put a bandage on your elbow for a sore knee?'; The way I fixed it was use a small peice of chain..yes chain. On the front cylinder side weld the end of the link of chain to the head of a 5/16 X 3/4 fine thread bolt and screw it into the housing. Now, you will have to either fabricate a bracket or bolt the chain to the metal bracket on the trans. You need 3 or 4 links and if it is too long, then you will have to make your own bracket and bolt it to the side of the tranny or weld an extension forward on your existing bracket. After you get it all done and adjusted (about 1/8 freeplay before the throwout bearing touches the pressure plate). work the pedal and you can see the cylinder flex up and down. With the chain, it can move freely wherever it wants. A simple idea...but it works and you may now not have to run as strong a pressure plate yet still hold.








    Throw Out Bearing Identification-Pressure Plate Matching





    Throw Out Bearing Identification Pic





    I almost forgot about this! This seems to be real confusing to a lot of people. I put a picture up because the two types of throw out bearings are hard to describe. The trannys that have the guide tube in the center of them MUST use the later style pressure plate WITHOUT a ring in the center of it AND the flat looking arm. You can remove the cone and put in an older style arm IF the arm that's in it now is the small one. (I think the small one is 17mm and the large one is 22mm). All of the bigger arms that I have seen MUST be used for the late style throw out bearing and pressure plate(without ring). The trannys without a center guide tube MUST use the pressure plate with a ring in the center of it. Again you can change the arm, but this time in order for you to do this, the trans MUST have 3 bolt holes for you to be able to bolt the cone on. Most pressure plates can be converted from the early style (with ring) to the late style by simply removing the ring. The late style trans with the cone is far better then the older ones, I guess that's why they changed it. Pic soon...I promise so you can see what I am talking about. In the mean time, if you are unsure, just e-mail me...








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    Axles/Cv-Joints





    The dreaded cv-joint. They are not designed for the HP or the angle that most of them are run in. I wish I had a dollar for each one I have broke. As long as the spring plate stops are not bent down, and the axle length is correct, the type 2's last ';fair';. The race ones that you can buy are very good as long as they are kept within the proper angle. I am now using Datsun 280 Z axles, and they seem to be real tough. By far, the best setup I have seen is the Porsche 930's. I agree that $600.00 and up is a lot of money for a set of axles and joints, but compared to the aggravation, missed rides, and getting stuck or stranded in the middle of God only knows, then that is cheap really. I mean as many as I have broke, I would gladly pay that much if it cured my problem. The Type 2 cv's will stand 20 degrees max. The Datsun 280's will also stand 20 degrees without any clearancing and around 25 with clearancing. (Do not clearance the cup area, cut the body ';thicker'; part.) The Porsche 930's stock will go around 28 and the race ones around 30. When in doubt, use less angle. The best way to make the 280's work is to use the flanges off of the Datsun (both ends, the wheel side and the differential side), and machine these off and weld them to the vw related parts. This way, you use the original Datsun bolts and nuts, and they WILL NOT come loose. I will try to post a picture so you can see what I am talking about. About the Datsun cv-joint- The factory joint is better than ANYTHING you can buy. Even used, the factory joint will last FAR longer. I recommend that if you are going to use the 280's then buy some extras just for the joints, or go to the dealer and buy FACTORY ones. For a set of flanges already made up, contact Phil's Bug Shack at 606-474-2889. He also has used axles, joints, etc.











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    Swing Axles





    The longer ones are tougher that the shorter ones, even though the shorter ones are bigger. Sometimes less equals more.








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    Recommendations





    It all depends on what you are going to do. Any VW tranny will hold up to mild off roading if you don't try to speed shift into 2nd or jump it off of the ground. If you are into any abuse then the first thing you need to do if you are running a type 1 tranny is to change the brass 1/2 shifting fork for a steel one. Read above on which ones have the brass ones because some are steel. Next, you will need to use AT LEAST the 10 tooth spider gears and differential found in the later type 1 trannys, and a super diff is recommended also. (Be sure to get one for the 10 tooth gears) Use the side plates that have at least one ring around on the outside of it and the 2 sided ones if you can find them. Next, for any moderate abuse also use the later type 1st gear set, (9 teeth on the mainshaft) these are a lot stronger. The next weakest link is the splines where the cv bell is. If you are breaking these, then there are aftermarket ones available that are stronger, but if you are having trouble here, then I would go to the 6-rib bus. Read my racing section below for more advice. For any specifics, just e-mail me.








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    The Anti-Shocker





    What the heck is this? Well, the anti shocker is a device that fits behind your clutch arm that slows down the last 1/4 inch or so of the arms travel when you ';pop'; the clutch. This is REAL trans saver especially if you use big pressure plates. This actually allows the clutch to slip for a fraction of a second. You cant feel it, but it takes the initial shock off of your trans and it can definitely tell it. (your pocket book will too). I was breaking my race car every weekend until I put one on it, and it cured it. These are available from Gene Berg Enterprises in CA @ 1-714-998-7500. This will not help you once the clutch is released though, it just slows down the rate of which it is released. If you are riding off road, the worst thing you can do to a trans (besides drag race starts without a anti-shocker)is jump your buggy off of the ground and have power on it when it lands. The shock to the trans is incredible. If you will hold the clutch in until it lands, trans life and axles, drivetrain, will last a LOT longer.








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    Racing/Abusing Reccomendations





    This section is for those of you that are into racing and/or off road abusing. There are several options available depending on (1) How thick your bill-fold is (honest), (2) exactly what kind of driving you are doing, and (3) knowing who to trust. I am sure there are a lot of good transmission builders out there and I am also definetly sure that there are a lot of bad ones too. I do not claim to be ';the best there is';--as knowledge is somewhat universal, but I have been into rebuilding VW transaxles for about 16 years and I have learned a great deal in that time. I have also ridden off-road for that amount of time (or longer), and I know what works--and better yet, what does NOT. I have taken transmissions apart that have had gears in them that were made from ';who knows where'; that were simply JUNK. These have been in the type 1 IRS and these gears were far WEAKER than stock. I have also seen a lot of the 4.86 R%26amp;P's (aftermarket Richmond) that were trash as well. Maybe Richmond has since made improvements, but all I know is they seem to not last very long. If you are considering one of these gearsets, then be warned. If you are running it on the street, then it will probably be ok. I buy 99% of my high-performance gearsets from Weddle Engineering in CA (805-696-9665) It was very refreshing when I first started dealing with them because they are someone who you can talk to, and who understands exactly what you am talking about and who is as knowledgable as I am when it comes to VW trannies. If you need advice..ask. Either me or them. If they have something that they think that will not stand up to whatever your application is, then they will tell you, not just ';say what you want to hear'; to make a sale. Their ';WP'; line of gearsets are outstanding. They are made in Austraila and are extremely strong. I have installed 25 or so of these gearsets with a single failure that I know of. I have built transmissions for people running 20 inch wide 35 inch tall tractor tires that have not torn them out. They are not cheap, but what do you want to do? I consider these gearsets a must for abuse. If money is tight, then a lot of people can run a cheaper 3rd and 4th gear as long as the synchro hubs are welded and honed. Usually there is not near as much torque in 3rd and 4th and almost any brand will work here. The next thing that is mandatory is a super diff. If you are running a type 1 IRS, then use a 10 tooth one. If you are using a 3-rib or 5-rib bus, then change it over to the 6-rib (bigger spider) super diff. The type 1, IRS one sided case is a good design and the later ones that have a rib that is moved over on the top close to the side cover are even better. These also have a 2 ring side cover which is real thick and as almost as good as anything you can buy. Here would be another good place for a pic (soon).


    The next weakest link in the Type 1 IRS is the output splines. They will snap off under high loads. Weddle makes conversion ones that have the 091 or 6-rib splines. If you are racing a swingaxle the the case is definetly a weak link. The ';Rhino'; case (around $250.00) is ';decent'; and the next step is the Autocraft aluminum case. They are around $800.00--definetly for the serious. The STOCK cases that have welded plates on them are JUNK. I am not sure that they are even as strong as a stock one beacuse of the weakening the welding does. Also, any kind of brackets, braces, plates or whatever that bolt on a stock case to ';TRY'; to make it stronger are also junk. There is no way to bolt a piece of metal on a case tight enough to do any good. What happens is the case breaks THEN the braces try to hold it and it does not work. I am not talking about mounting straps..I mean the case brace bars that bolt to the top of the bell housing down to the front of the tranny.